Rishikesh to Devprayag Cycling Trip

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived"

-Henry David Thoreau

I cannot live at the extremities to which HDT lived but I can always live the essence of his line of living. But I strongly agree with "when I came to die, discover that I had not lived". I too want to die with as lesser regrets as possible. The only way to achieve that is to try to live as fiercely as possible. That is something I had been trying to do since the year I left Smoking and Drinking. Every year on my birthday from last 2 years I have gone on a Trek and a Cycling trip from Delhi to Agra To Jaipur and Back. This year had been no different. I had been thinking of going from Rishikesh to Devprayag on a Cycle for a long time now. What could be a better day to attempt this feat than my 31st Birthday?

The thought of attempting this route on a cycle had been germinating in my mind since the day I went on a trek in Joshimath and saw Bhagirathi and Alakhnanda merging together to make Ganga for the first time. It captured my imagination when I tried Delhi to Rishikesh on a cycle sometime before. But could not go till Devprayag due to lack of experience, confidence, stamina, energy, and equipment. This time around I had everything. A good Mountain Bike, some off-roading experience; in Aravali hills near Gurgaon - Faridabad highway; better stamina, cleaner lungs and stronger legs with 9, 500+ kilometers on the saddle till date.

There was a feeling of reluctance in my mind on the day I had to leave for Rishikesh. This procrastinating continued until the next day, a day after the decided day when I was supposed to leave; due to something going on in my personal life. I was not sure of leaving even the day, the hour before I actually left for it. Anyways a day and 3/4th late finally I left my home for this trip on my Scott Aspect 740 large frame, 27.5 incher MTB. At 9:30 PM,  I thought of catching the bus for Rishikesh from Anand Vihar ISBT which is quite near my house. Tackling the maddening crowd, staring eyes, and some turning heads towards mounted headlights, taillights on my bike, and reflector jacket on my shoulders; I reached my destination. As I rushed through to Uttrakhand Transportation Corporation's ticket counter, a middle-aged uncle (every unknown person in India is either uncle, aunty, bhaiya (brother) or madam) told me that there are no buses from here to Rishikesh and I need to goto Kashmere Gate ISBT. Again tackling the crowd, its stares, glances, and exclamations like oh Teri! (damn); which was another 17-19 Km from where I was; I peddled my to Kashmere Gate at 9:45 PM carrying along the fear of dogs, hesitancy of catching the bus, and if they would allow my cycle to travel with me without a prior booking; with me.

As I reached the gates of Delhi's biggest Bus station from where every bus left for their respective destinations, I happened to see a board in Hindi reading 'Rishikesh'. Hesitantly, I asked the bus conductor if I could go to Rishikesh in his bus. He looked at me from head to feet. Smiled at me at first looking at my gear and bike. Then said, why not! come on in. I asked him how. He told me from the front door. I asked him, is my bike allowed? He told me why not if you are willing to pay for its ticket. To which I readily agreed and loaded my bike inside his bus and took it to the last seat.

"My Place In Bus"

Reached Rishikesh bus stand at 4:30 AM in the morning. It was all windy and a little chilly. I was not carrying any jacket or full length trousers with me. All I had were a couple of t-shirts, a full sleeve shirt and a couple of shorts including my padded shorts. Please carry a light jacket if you happen to be in Rishikesh sometime in March. The early mornings and nights are chilly. I rode my way from the bus stand to Laxman Jhula in search of an accommodation. The dogs here in Rishikesh were as curious as people back at Anand Vihar. The only difference was that they were just staring and the dogs here were all barking and chasing me. God knows if that was my weird getup, energy or the lights on my bike which captured the imagination of these dogs of Rishikesh. Fighting my fear and anxiety at every turn and sight of any dog or their group gatherings. I reached Laxman Jhula only to discover that shops were not open yet. I was advised to stay in Tapovan. I reached Tapovan to find out that Mount Valley Mama Cottage is full and there is no one at New Bhandari Swiss Cottage. Reluctantly I strolled my bike to NH7 and made a call to a campsite manager to book a tent.

 "Accommodation In Shivpuri"

After booking the tent I peddled my way on NH7 to Shivpuri. Reached Shivpuri. Had breakfast. Checked out the river which was flowing in full flow very close to where I was staying. Dumped most of my stuff; retaining some of the important ones like a pump, toolkit, lock, reflector jackets, lights and power bank; in the tent which I had booked and shot off on my bike for Devprayag! It is 55 Kms from Shivpuri and 68 from Rishikesh. It was 10:00 AM in the morning when I started from Shivpuri. Making calculations based on my approximation for my average speed on hills and trails, which is about 15-17 kmph, I came to a conclusion that it will take me 7.5 - 8.5 hours including a one hour break at Devprayag. So, in any case, I would have been back by 5:30 PM or at maximum by 6:30 PM. To which all I have to say now is "Never underestimate the gradients and climbs of a hill". Initially, it was all downhill and a little uphill to entice and augment the overconfidence which I had when I started. After 1.5 hours in the ride there started the back-breaking uphill climb. It was nearly 11:30 AM near noon and the sun was almost above my head glaring in its full glory.

As the climb it started I was very confident with my body, muscles, and experience. I had done many trails near Gurgaon Faridabad highway. Had attempted many climbs in the trails. All the images and memories of those conquered trails and climbs came to the mind. Switching to a low gear combination on chainrings and on the cassette. 2-3 or 2-2 or sometimes 2-1 was the gear combination I was compelled to use, on a chainring-cassette setup (in that order).  This was one climb that was not willing to end. I had to step further down on my 3 level chainring system to 1-3, 1-2 or 1-1 gear combination on certain stretches where the climb was steeper. I thought of making just one stop when I started initially. But this endless backbreaking climb made me stop midway at a rock where I drank water, caught my breath and clicking a few pictures moved on. It was kind of recollection stop. My legs were screaming at top of their voices "Please stop this madness". Which activated my vocal chords and made them utter a powerful scream "F*** it and I stopped.

"Stoppage Point"

"Photo Sessions Amidst Madness"

This time around the Sun was right above my head as I crawled my way to a small eating joint also known as 'dhaaba' in India. I ordered Yellow Split chickpeas lentils and rice. Which I was offered all on one plate. Never had food tasted so good in my entire life. It was heavenly, bliss, euphoria, call whatever you may! I suppose this should be the way to eat and digest food. I also had Limca with jaljeera (Mix of some spices with black salt) which is the best remedy for cramps or to avoid any foreseeable cramps. Normally I am not the kind of person who would ask anybody on a trek or be cycling expedition the question "how far is it?". But I was compelled to shoot this question to the shop owner "How much more do I have to climb?". To which the reply sounded so sonorous that even Adele couldn't match. He informed me coolly that it is just 2 KM of climb left. After which it is all downhill.

My Strava read 33.3 KM at this point. 33.3 Kilometers only! I was in shock at first. The amount of effort I have put in peddling my way till this point; if I would have applied the same amount of effort on a plain road my Strava was bound to cross 100-kilometer mark. This reading meant I still have to cover 22 Kilometers approximately 2 uphill and 20 downhill. This 20 downhill uplifted my spirits tremendously; which was all over the place in last 2.5 hours of endless spine breaking climbs. I took off again. My butts were pleading with me to not to put them back on that rocky saddle. But who listens to these poor butts anyways. 2 KM uphills as rightly pointed out by the food joint owner. Then the descent started. I was cruising. 50-60 KMPH on the downhill, cool wind on my face and legs, the green water of the Ganges flowing next to me, my heart was resounding a big, cliched word 'bliss'. Because there is nothing like absolute bliss when you are on a 100+km bike ride on mountains. What is uphill will be downhill and what is downhill is going to be uphill. The first practical lesson of 'Neti-Neti' learned and understood.

"Snaky and Twisted Roads Of The Mountains"

There is no point to be too depressed, and no point in being too happy. What is uphill will eventually be downhill and what is downhill is eventually going to be uphill. Finally, what exactly matters in this game of uphill and downhill is that you keep on pedaling, keep on learning, keep on moving, with a much-unaffected mind as one can. The following lines of the song "Mann Kasturi" from the movie Masan came to my mind.

उल्टा कर के देख सके तो
अम्बर भी है गहरी खाई||
(If you turn it upside down,
Even the sky is like a bottomless pit)

I  kind of grasped some experiential meaning of those two lines at that very moment. Not trying to get carried away by the thrill and excitement of the downhill section of the ride, I cruised my way closer to Devprayag. It was now in my sight. From a distance, at the top of a mountain, I could see the 2 tributaries meeting. The sight gave me an elated sense of relief and contentment. This was what I had come to see, and witness. 300+ Kilometers; 233 on a Bus and 67 on my bike; all the way from my home in Ghaziabad to this point in space. This is how a pilgrimage has to be done for some deeper or shallow spiritual experiences. Otherwise, you are just visiting another place, another touristic destination with your same old self. Nothing changes, nothing transpires really and there is no experience at all; deep or shallow.

"Devprayag - Spotted From a Distance"

I took me and my bike all the way down at the helm, the mouth or junction of this union also known as 'Prayag'. I drank the water directly from the river; making the freshly formed Ganga flow through my dry throat to my thirsty stomach. I for the first time experienced the feeling of 'one-ness' of what these mystics, Sufi poets, and spiritual teachers talk about in every literary work of theirs. I was grabbed with this thought that 60% of me is water, followed by an intense feeling that I am the river and the river is me. It lasted for only 6-10 seconds but it gave me a sense of sensitivity, what lifetimes cannot impart. I knew I have inched one more step closer to my roots, my being, and self.

"Adjacent to Devprayag"

I returned back to my tent/camp late at around 8:00 PM - 8:30 PM. Many times on my way back I felt intense pain and discomfort in my legs, butt, back, and palms. The thought "why me" came and went. I was calmer, more composed, and more in control of my being than what I was when I started. It was pitch dark after 7:00 PM and I almost rode for one and a half hour in that stark darkness. Still, there was something inside me which was automatically combating the fear which was culminating every now and then. This something I am sure was what the river gave me as a birthday gift in those 6-10 seconds of communion.

"Sunset - Marking The End Of A Day and A Beginning Of The Other"

A Trip To Banares - Untangling Knots

बाबा के बैठक में बिछी चटाई , बहार रखे खड़ाऊं (At the meeting place of the wise man, there is a floor mat and outside are kept the slippers)

मिलने वाले के मन में असमंजस जाऊं या न जाऊं (There is a doubt in the mind of a man who so dearly wants to meet this wise man. And he is so caught up by this dilemma of whether to go in or stay back)

माथे तिलक आँख पर ऐनक, पोथी खुली स्वयं से बोले (The wise man has a holy mark on his forehead, spectacles on his eyes, there are holy scriptures in front of him and he talks to himself saying...)

आओ मन की गाँठे खोलें  (Come lets untangle these knots of the mind, Come lets untangle these knots of the mind.)

आओ मन की गाँठे खोलें | 

These famous lines from Aao Man Ki Ganthen Kholen by our former Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee naturally comes to the mind when one thinks about Banares; now known as Varanasi. I had been planning on visiting this sacred land back from college days, but never had a chance to do so until August this year. We had been watching a few documentaries on Banares (I prefer to call this ancient city by its old name) and also there has been a mention of this place in the book: Aghora: At the left hand of god by Robert E. Svoboda. Since that time me and my friend Approv (Whom we lovingly address as 'Pondy' - where "pondy" is a slang for hindi porn literature) had been so hooked on visiting this place. But the movie Masan really cemented our wish to visit this place into action and reality. 

I wanted to visit this place chiefly because of the following 3 reasons: 

1) The funeral grounds - Where one can witness death in its crude and naked reality.

2) The age old culture and traditions

3) The mighty Ganges

The Funeral Grounds - Life and Death!

There are 2 funeral ghats at two extreme ends of the Banares coast lines. In between these two funeral ghats, spirituality, business, religion, philosophy and everything else that comprises life exists. It is a geographic symbolism to the very fact of life; death. It is between this wheel of life and death that life exists. 

We stayed close to Raja Harish Chandra Ghat because we were told it is cheaper there. We did not mind the place being very close to one of the funeral ghats of Banares; rather we were happy. It was also a place closer to Baba Kinaram Sthal and Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple. Don't forget to try the famous Balushahi of Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple. It comes all wrapped up in environment friendly boxes made of bamboo shoots and is being packed with lots of Tulsi leaves.  

We spent a lot of time on Harish Chandra ghat trying to realize the impermanent nature of life in the grossest manner possible by looking at the procession of funeral pyres next to us. Also we realized that there is a separate ghat for upper class and the rich of the society; Manikarnika Ghat; then there is a ghat for the lower class and poor of the society; near to which we were staying; called Raja Harish Chandra Ghat. We have not spared even death from this ugly human division of high and low, upper and lower. Life and death existed in this place at such close proximities. Such existence gives you an altogether different perspective in life which is so hard to find in Cities and concrete jungles of a metropolitan. Life moves at a different pace in these places and have a bittersweet taste to it which simply enriches the taste buds of your life experiences. I am sorry I don't have any pictures of these two ghats as we wished to honor the deceased and the privacy of the near and dear ones.

The age old culture and traditions!

"A Scene From Assi Ghat"

Banares is a city known to be founded by Shiva and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in India. From Buddha to Adi Shankracharya to Tulsidas to Guru Nanak jee everyone has some relation or the other to this place. Such is the heavy weight, age old history of this place. You will find here from different traditions to different cultures all amalgamating here in one stream of life. 

This diversity is not only limited to people, traditions and cultures, but you can see its presence in varied food options available from sweets to 'Chaat' (very spicy and piquant snack) to drinks. If you are in Banares, you should let your tastes buds run wild and go crazy. Try everything to anything. Especially the local chaat, pan (Indian Mouthfreshner) and thandai. This place is a heaven for foodies. Especially for people who love street food. 

Godowlia Chowk is the place where you can get amazing Thandai. You get this drink either plain or with Bhaang. Banarasi Thandai is prepared with melon seeds, cream, milk, rose petals, saafron, almonds, sugar, cashew and saunf. Thandai in Banaras is also available with a dose of bhang, if you’re up for trying. Bhang consists of dried leaves and buds of the female cannabis plant. 

"Shiva Thandai - Godowlia Chowk"

The Mighty Ganges:

From Rishikesh to Banares I had always been fascinated with rivers. Sitting on a river bank and watching the river flow in juxtaposition with my flowing thoughts had been my favorite past time. I can sit on a river bank for hours at a stretch without getting bored. Observing the river with the flowing thoughts in my mind, sipping tea once a while, and reading a few pages from my book has been what I was there for, majorly. 

"Chai, Book and The River! A Still From Narad Ghat"

I wanted to take a boat trip as I saw people taking it, but I let that thought pass and did not care to transform it into action. It was too much trouble. But I loved watching these boats passing by. Sometimes full with 15-20 people and sometimes only with couple of people on the entire boat. It was as if looking at them from the other side of the world and they being placed at the other end. 

"Boat Parking"

Probably these boat trips could give you a different feel of the ghats and the place. It can let you look at things from a different perspective. It will cost you somewhere between Rs. 150 - 400 (depending on the boat size and group strength) to get this perspective. I saved it for a later visit when I comeback to the place. One should always leave a thing or two undone to keep it as a reason to come back that is my modus operandi when visiting a place. 

"The Boat Ride - Break On Through To The Other Side"

There is something for everyone in this city. From someone as introverted as me to someone very gregarious and outgoing. This is a place which will not be bothered to interfere with your true being. It will let you be what you naturally choose to be....

"A Sage, Sadhu, Taking A Holy Dip In The River"

“जिन खोजा तिन पाइया, गहरे पानी पैठ, मैं बपुरा बूडन डरा, रहा किनारे बैठ।” (Those who try, they get something or the other. Just like a hard-working diver goes deep into the water and comes up with something. But there are some poor people who are sitting on the shore with fear of drowning and can not find anything.) 

So please be the diver, go out and visit this ancient city of India, lovingly called as Banares and formally known as Varanasi. 

A Short Poem Dedicated To My Backpack

"I always wonder why birds stay in the same place when they can fly anywhere on the earth. Then I ask myself the same question" – Harun Yahya

Tour-De Golden Triangle. Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi On A Bicycle Part 3 (Last Part)

The Final Crescendo - Day 3 - Jaipur - India Gate:

“The journey is what brings us happiness not the destination.” This is what is being said in Dan Millman's inspiration stirring book 'Way of the peaceful warrior'. This is one of many lessons which this book has to offer when you read it. I remembered these set of words arranged in a sentence from the book, as we were sitting on the stairs of the Hotel entrance. 1:30 AM it was on the clock as we have reached our destination for the day. While sitting on the cold marble floor of the hotel staircase, I remembered a day from the past when I used to be all eccentric and stupid. A group of friends; including me; belonging to the same clan of similar stupidity and eccentricity booked a cab to come down to Jaipur to check in a hotel to get high and wasted. I don't even remember my own thoughts and feelings at that time. I just remember being completely wasted, on the way I had vomited twice and was carried on two shaky shoulders to be shoved into a hotel room to be left alone to sleep off the booze, just to get ready to get wasted again. The destination was the same, a 4 star hotel in Jaipur, but the journey was different and the purpose was different. One journey was taken towards self-abnegation, destruction and complete annihilation of the mind while another was taken towards self cleansing, purification and complete catharsis of the mind. I could conspicuously see the contrast between my old self and the present self to understand the quote “The journey is what brings us happiness not the destination” in depth and with better clarity. This train of thoughts and realisations were broken by a sharp pang of hunger originating in my very stomach. 

Tour-De Golden Triangle. Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi On A Bicycle Part 2

The Fugue - Day 2 - Agra to Jaipur

Here comes the pain! When I woke up next morning in my bed at Taj Resorts Agra, room number 1002, I felt a mild pain in my left knee and ankle in form of a soft whisper trying to warn me about the upcoming horror, like clouds on the horizon. As I was in the process of regaining my consciousness, I realised that I had made a big mistake in carrying the monkey on my back and completing the 224 KM stretch from my home to Taj Mahal at more than my comfortable speed. Lesson learnt for long rides: Set a pace for yourself, in which you are comfortable, and follow it till the entire ride. Also choose the gear combination which you are going to use for majority part of your ride, when you are not fighting the headwind or sprinting.

Brushing aside the thought of pain, I got ready as we had to get down for breakfast sharp at 7:00 AM, with flag off time set at 8:00 AM by our captain Kamal Bisht. Me and Gaurav checked our bikes, and  after cleaning and oiling our bikes we went together towards the breakfast table. At that very moment I felt so glad to have Gaurav by my side on this expedition. Without him I would have had been totally lost. When I first told him about this expedition he was a bit reluctant in joining. I was not at all expecting him on this trip and it was a pleasant surprise to know that Gaurav will be joining this expedition too. He phoned me the day before the ride and gave me a long list of some useful items (which I that time found it utterly useless) to bring along with me for this ride. For those who do not know Gaurav; he is part of my company and we both have done many rides together as part of HCL Pedal Pushers Group. We also shared rooms together along with another riders, Dhruv in Agra and Avadhesh in Jaipur. Gaurav is a seasoned rider with good experience. He is a kind of person who will not flinch an iota in throwing one or two good advice at your way, without sounding or seeming bossy.

"Me and Gaurav Getting Our Bikes Ready For A Long Windy Day Ahead"

Tour De Golden Triangle. Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi On A Bicycle Part 1 TDGT

The Prelude:

The seeds were planted last year, I guess in April. Nothing takes place in vacuum. In April 2016 I created a Facebook event - Noida - Agra - Noida on Cycle 400 KM. This was when I first got my Btwin Rock Rider 300 on Yamuna Expressway. There was a milestone next to the road reading "Agra 200 KM". A thought, followed by a strong feeling started creating cadence in my head; that if I can do this, then I will be prepared to face from worse to the worst in life. I will grow in strength, both mental and physical. A strong desire started giving shape to this thought like a potter's hand on the revolving clay. This was the phase when I was clean; off from Alcohol and smoking for 4 months now and was struggling with the relapse phase. 'Easier desired than done' is my twisted version of the cliched saying 'easier said than done'. I was not prepared physically for such long rides. Lack of experience and physical stamina were 2 biggest roadblocks. So this Facebook event's date was moved from pillar to post. Initially it was 4th April 2016; postponed to 4th May; then to 4th June. This epic drama went on till 4th September when I finally decided to take the event down completely. I could have deleted the event, but could not delete the strong desire from my consciousness to attempt something like Delhi to Agra and back on cycle.

Tour De Golden Triangle - List Of Riders And Marshalls With Their Introductions TDGT

Riders:

"Group Photo In Front Of Amer Fort. Captain Kamal Bisht Missing"

1) Gurleen Kaur (The Hardcore MTB Lady! 600 KM Brevet Rider On MTB. A lady with ardent determination and limitless perseverance. An inspiration for many)
2) Gaurav Dasgupta (Super Randonneur, my mentor in cycling, my room partner on this ride. Highly spirited and motivated person.Very helpful and supportive)
3) Dhruv (Young IT professional. Totally belongs to GenX. Someone filled with raw boisterous Zeal. A very strong and Determined Rider too.)
4) Nidhi Sharma (One of the nicest kids I have come across. The fact that she has 4 nationals under her belt, her personality does not reflect even an iota of ego or attitude. This the most amazing thing which I have observed in her and got inspired from. A very strong and aggressive rider; very amiable in demeanour)
5) Kamal Sundriyal (1200 KM Brevet finisher)

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2-3. Days of New Friendships and Realizations

The following are the entries in my Travel Journal of the last remaining days of this trip:

# Saw another guide and a foreigner dashing past me when I was returning from Ilaaka area. First emotion had been of jealousy. They were going towards Lahesh Cave which I had so recently given up. Then this negative feeling melted away and turned itself into good wishes and of admiration towards these two.

# Discovered that the foreigner's name is Shane and his nationality is New Zealand. He and his guide Mahendra had made it till Lahesh Cave. Felt genuine respect and adulation towards these two.

# Weather getting worse from bad.

# Had warm and hearty chats with Shane, a French couple, Sukhi and Herman from the Indian Air Force Services. Ate, Drank Tea, Coffee.

# Hail Storm, from Low to Medium to Death Metal followed by silent snowfall (Simon and Garfunkel) 

# Dinner at 8. Feeling scared and anxious as weather getting worse and worse.

DAY 5

# Woke up at 6:30.

# No improvement in weather conditions. Not feeling scared anymore. Slept well over my last night's fear and anxiousness. Feeling a lot better instead of worsening weather conditions outside.

# 10:00 AM - Had breakfast and coffee with Shane and the Airforce soldiers. A weather window opened up. The heavy winds and snow they stopped. Till now god was playing and pausing the winds and snow. Now he has pressed the stop button on it.

# This was our weather window to start the descend. The airforce group had decided to stay. Shane and Mahendra have decided to make it for Triund. My decision was to follow Shane and Mahendra the guide as all the yellow markings and the trail path are buried in heavy layers of fresh snow.

                   "On The Way To Triund"

# Feeling more confident walking on snow.

# Came back to Triund safely in record time of 50-60 minutes.

                  "Triund Covered In Snow"

# Had tea, chit chatted in general at Triund.

# From Triund everything was a cakewalk. We came storming down; jesting and laughing, with periods of silent descend. Picked up all the litter and garbage along the way in my rucksack's rain cover.

# Reached Mcleodganj. Had sumptuous lunch with Shane at a Tibetan restaurant. Noodles and rice in Thai Vegetable curry. Peach iced tea and banana shake to gulp it all down.

# Shared the contact details. Wished each other luck and parted.

# Collected all my leftover belongings from Dharamkot in the midst of heavy hailstorm. 

# Booked my bus to Delhi for 7:00 PM. Bus on time. 7:15 PM started for Delhi.

# BIRTHDAY WELL SPENT

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2 - Strolling And Fooling Around Can Be Fun Too!

#Strolling Around

After the snowfall was over, the entire snowline - Illaka area was covered in Snow. I took a long walk to the nearby places testing my new Quechua Forclaz 100 which I got as a Birthday gift from my Aunts. This shoe is brilliant. It has good grip especially on snow. Also it is about 75-80% waterproof. I would recommend that you should always buy trekking shoes one size bigger than your normal size. I did what I preach, following this useful advice from the book Wild by Cheryl Strayed. It provided me that extra space and cushion during descends while protecting my toes from getting hurt or crushed. A pair of good trekking shoes has the capability of transforming your trekking experience from a good one to an awesome one. I had never realized the power of right gears and equipment until now. @Chidiyyaaa and @meera.in.me had also gifted me a pair of warm track pants from Adidas. I would like to use this opportunity to thank them and my Aunts for such utilitarian gifts. These gifts enriched and enhanced my overall trekking experience many folds.

"Indrahar Pass Mountain Range, Covered with Clouds"

I was missing a Guide at this point in time. Being alone and walking unknown paths sounds adventurous. But no matter how much adventurous it may sound, one should always think and operate in certain comfort level when dealing with nature. Keep a feeling of respect and reverence towards nature and it will treat you the same way. I can see the way towards Lahesh Cave from Illaka, but as the weather was unpredictable and I had my own apprehensions about snow and snowfalls, I abstained myself from taking that path. I retracted my steps back to Snowline cafe camp with a heavy heart. I was also getting hungry and the Snowfall was growing heavy too. 

#Hijacking A Group Guide

I was alone in the Snowline Cafe Mansion sipping my tea, eating bread omelette and talking to the shop owner about the possibility of people coming in such bad weather. As we were speaking I heard some voices and saw a group of 3 people approaching the cafe. They were going further towards Illaka. They had a Guide. I thought I will go with them farther into the Illaka area and if I feel confident and good I will go to Lahesh Cave alone. This Guide had 2 clients with him. They both were from Delhi. They were good and kind people, but were not very good hikers. They gave up mid way between Snowline cafe and Illaka. Their Guide and I made it all the way to Illaka area leaving the other two midway on a snow cliff stuck and struggling. 

"Hijacking the Group Guide"

"Mission Accomplished. Guide Hijacked!"

We both were happy to reach the destined location. But I wanted to go further all the way to Lahesh cave. So after taking a few selfies I asked the Guide about the way. He advised me not to go alone in such bad weather but showed me the path to Lahesh Cave anyways. I was in a limbo. Then something clicked and I finally gave up on Lahesh Cave in my mind and heart. I thought may be this is not the right time, may be some other time. I made a mental note that I will be coming here and doing the Indrahar Pass Trek next year. Our guide took some more pictures and asked me if I wished to return to Snowline Cafe with him. I said yes with a heavy heart and we both made our way back to Snowline Cafe, picking our abandoned, half dead trekking soldiers on the way.  

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2 - First Snowfall

#Campfire And Time To Sleep

Snowline Cafe, 5th Of March. There were 10 of us who stayed back at Snowline cafe after the cafe owner asked a group to return to Triund as there was scarcity of space. We all collected woods from the nearby area for the evening's campfire, spreading out community vibes. This group of 9 people consisted of 6 students and 3 working class people. It was good fun. The kids were doing Engineering from a modest college in Chandigarh. We had the fire going. It was getting chilly as the night was progressing. We laughed, joked sitting in a circle around the fire. The college lads brought freshness to the group with their silly jokes and pranks. The 3 adults were more and partly serious but avidly took part in the silly conversation that was going on about girlfriend issues. At 9 PM our host called us in for food. by 9:30 we all were in our spot, ready to sleep. The place was all crammed and packed with 10 sleeping bodies lying adolescent to each other. We all slept sound and well in tiredness in spite of the discomfort of the place.

#First Snowfall

“I was in love, and the feeling was even more wonderful than I ever imagined it could be.” 
― Nicholas Sparks

First hand experiences are always better than vicarious experiences. Moreover if you are experiencing it for the first time. 4:30 AM was on the clock and 6th of March on the calendar. I was woken up by gushes of water droplets hitting my face. It was still dark outside, I thought it is raining as I was checking my sleeping bag for any kind of serious wetness. There was no cover on the front entry of the shop from where the gush of wind was bringing water droplets inside. I was getting more and more worried about my sleeping bag getting wet. I managed to find a spare blanket. I pulled it on top of my sleeping bag and face. I went to sleep after this. I woke up at 6:30 AM; when the sun had just started to come out; with everyone else. When I looked outside what was green a few hours ago has turned itself into white. It was not rain but snowfall that was taking place since 4:30 AM in the morning. It was still snowing outside. This was me witnessing my first snowfall of my life and that too on my Birthday. This was nature's birthday gift for me.

"Snowline Cafe Submerged Under Fresh Snow"

All the young lads went crazy at the site of fresh snow outside. I broke the news about my birthday to others at this point. There was jubilation, excitement and happiness in the air. Everyone congratulated me. We all played a little in the snow and took group pictures with the college gang. The college lads and the 3 adults had to leave, We bode our goodbyes and thanked each other for the wonderful time that we have spent together. 

After they left, I had the entire day at my disposal. The thought of this prospect made me feel expectantly happy and hesitantly unsure because I had Lahesh Cave in my sight and fresh snow under my feet. My experience of  walking on snow is very limited and sketchy. So after Breakfast I went out to survey the fresh snow. Walked to near by places, getting my feet and body adjusted to walking on snow. Building my confidence and enjoying everything that was unfolding on this day. 

  

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – The Trek Starts

#To Triund and Beyond

Next day was Saturday on 5th of March 2016. I had checked the weather on Accuweather for Triund before planning my trip. It said that 3rd and 4th will be bright and sunny (These were the days spent in Dharamkot, sunbathing), 5th and 6th will be rainy and cold with thunderstorms and hailstorms (These were the days chosen for trekking and to be spent in snowline cafe and Lehash cave). I had a good raincoat which I had bought in Mcleodganj and a good backpack rain cover with me. The morning was overcast with clouds in the sky. I was all set and ready to start the trek on this fine morning. 

After a sumptuous Indian Breakfast at Radha Cafe in Dharamkot the trek had started. It is not even a trek but a 8 km walk in hills. Soon after walking for 3 hours and 15 minutes I reached Triund at 1:45 PM. Weather in these kind of areas is very unpredictable. It is always a good Idea to carry a raincoat with you as there were spats of rain here and there on the way. 

"On The Way - Triund"

After reaching Triund I observed an unusually high volume of crowd of 30 - 40 people in the area. Normally such places are devoid of people. I took some pictures, inquired about the price for securing a spot in shops to sleep and eat. It was Rs. 250 for a night's stay and Rs 130 per plate of Rice and kidney bean Curry. I had planned to stay in Triund for a day and leave for Snowline and Ilaka the next day on my Birthday. But after seeing swarms of people coming in and overhearing a few people talking about going to Snowline and their plans to stay there, I changed my mind instantaneously and decided to leave for Snowline right away after tea. "Instinctive decisions are the best decisions" this idea has been emphasized very well in Malcom Gladwell's book Blink. This has again been proven right.

"After Reaching Triund"

Snowline cafe has a maximum stay capacity of 12-13 people inside the shop. Given the fact the weather was going to get bad, pitching tents would have been risky. I somehow foresaw that Snowline cafe too is going to get crowded and there would be a fight for space. I literally pushed  myself towards Snowline cafe. There was a situation here and with that a sense of great alacrity. Within 1 hour 30-45 minutes I was at Snowline cafe leaving behind 2 large groups of students.

When I reached snowline cafe, there was no one else there but the shop owner. I booked my sweet spot, by planting my backpack in a spot inside the shop. I had a word with the shop owner about the price, it was nearly the same as what was in Triund. I also informed him about the 2 large groups approaching his establishment for which he was happy. I had some omelette bread, and tea to gulp it down with. I was a happy chap after securing food and lodging. 

I took off my new Quechua Forclaz 100 to put on my Quechua Arpenaz 200 Sandals in order to take a stroll in nearby area. The feeling was of happiness and contentment with nothing to do but just to be. 

"Sunset from Snowline - Ilaka"

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka - Initial Days

#To Catch A Moving Bus

It was 2nd of March 2016 and I had a 9:22 PM bus to catch. With that in mind I got up and got ready to leave for office early that day. The dilemma was whether or not to go to office on cycle. After a few deliberations I decided on going to office on Cycle that day. I reached office at 1 PM thinking that I will mark half day and leave office early at 6:30. Feeling confident that 3 hours will be more than enough to reach ISBT from my den in Noida. I was forgetting or rather ignoring the fact that I was on cycle and there had been no packing done. I left office (which is 15 kms. away from my home) at 6:30 PM and started cycling towards my home. Reached home at 7:30 PM with less than 2 hours in my hands.

Now was the time that I started getting scared of the fact that I will miss my bus. I was packing my backpack with very little time left for thinking what to pick and what not to pick. In the end my rucksack was jam packed with jacket and shoes hanging out from it. I wish I had more time, because I then realized that my backpack had 60-70%  useless contents which I was never going to use on my trip. Here I would like to throw a list of essentials to pack, rest all is useless:

1) 2-3 T-shirts
2) 1 or 2 pair of Jeans
3) 2 warm track pants
4) 2-3 underwear
5) 2 pair of socks
6) Heart and will

Backpack - Finally Packed, Jam Packed

Finally I reached ISBT at 9:30 PM, running, huffing and puffing. When I reached the Himachal Transport stand I came to know that my bus had left. I was in shock and despair for a few minutes, then another person told me to run as the bus is still in the process of leaving and showed me the moving bus. I ran with all my might towards the bus with my heavy bag and eventually caught it. I was grinning from ear to ear and must have been looking so crazy that everyone in the bus was staring at me. A thought crossed my mind "The whole is greater than the sum of its parts" by Aristotle.

#Dharamkot and Mcleodganj

Next day I was in Mcleodganj. I had to buy mattress and raincoat as I was planning to sleep in Lahesh Cave for one day and not to get myself wet. I bought those two items for Rs. 1000, 500 each. I reached Dharamkot; which is 2-3 Kilometers walk from Mcleodganj; late in the morning. It is always wise to stay in Dharamkot as it is quieter, less crowded, and cheaper than Mcleodganj. After booking my room for Rs. 500 a day at Paul Room Service I headed out for Breakfast.  Nothing beats the Indian Breakfast in sumptuousness and fulfillness. I had a filling breakfast after which I strolled, read, and relaxed in the Dharamkot area till evening and after dinner slept early.

Indian Breakfast At Trek And Dine, Dharamkot

Next day after sleeping off the tiredness and having breakfast I decided to go for evening group sitting in Dhamma Sikhara for Vipassana.  This center is closed till mid March is what I came to learn from the locals. As I was returning from the center I observed the shops being closed. After walking a few steps I saw a funeral march of someone who had died a few hours ago the same day. The entire town was a part of that march as I could see some familiar faces of local shop owners and workers. I too said my prayers for the dead and walked on. All the shops in the area were closed. I retired to my room feeling uneasy and disturbed. Later on after my meditation I went to sought my dinner. It was dark and all the lights in the town were shut off and all the shops and restaurants in the area were closed too. I came to know that this was to pay homage to the dead. The dead was no monk, no politician but an ordinary citizen who has died a natural death out of old age. I was literally moved upon encountering such solidarity and community feeling which so much is absent from where I belong. I found a small restaurant open. They too had all the lights off, so I had my silent and reflective dinner under candle light and went to sleep right after it.