Rishikesh to Devprayag Cycling Trip

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived"

-Henry David Thoreau

I cannot live at the extremities to which HDT lived but I can always live the essence of his line of living. But I strongly agree with "when I came to die, discover that I had not lived". I too want to die with as lesser regrets as possible. The only way to achieve that is to try to live as fiercely as possible. That is something I had been trying to do since the year I left Smoking and Drinking. Every year on my birthday from last 2 years I have gone on a Trek and a Cycling trip from Delhi to Agra To Jaipur and Back. This year had been no different. I had been thinking of going from Rishikesh to Devprayag on a Cycle for a long time now. What could be a better day to attempt this feat than my 31st Birthday?

The thought of attempting this route on a cycle had been germinating in my mind since the day I went on a trek in Joshimath and saw Bhagirathi and Alakhnanda merging together to make Ganga for the first time. It captured my imagination when I tried Delhi to Rishikesh on a cycle sometime before. But could not go till Devprayag due to lack of experience, confidence, stamina, energy, and equipment. This time around I had everything. A good Mountain Bike, some off-roading experience; in Aravali hills near Gurgaon - Faridabad highway; better stamina, cleaner lungs and stronger legs with 9, 500+ kilometers on the saddle till date.

There was a feeling of reluctance in my mind on the day I had to leave for Rishikesh. This procrastinating continued until the next day, a day after the decided day when I was supposed to leave; due to something going on in my personal life. I was not sure of leaving even the day, the hour before I actually left for it. Anyways a day and 3/4th late finally I left my home for this trip on my Scott Aspect 740 large frame, 27.5 incher MTB. At 9:30 PM,  I thought of catching the bus for Rishikesh from Anand Vihar ISBT which is quite near my house. Tackling the maddening crowd, staring eyes, and some turning heads towards mounted headlights, taillights on my bike, and reflector jacket on my shoulders; I reached my destination. As I rushed through to Uttrakhand Transportation Corporation's ticket counter, a middle-aged uncle (every unknown person in India is either uncle, aunty, bhaiya (brother) or madam) told me that there are no buses from here to Rishikesh and I need to goto Kashmere Gate ISBT. Again tackling the crowd, its stares, glances, and exclamations like oh Teri! (damn); which was another 17-19 Km from where I was; I peddled my to Kashmere Gate at 9:45 PM carrying along the fear of dogs, hesitancy of catching the bus, and if they would allow my cycle to travel with me without a prior booking; with me.

As I reached the gates of Delhi's biggest Bus station from where every bus left for their respective destinations, I happened to see a board in Hindi reading 'Rishikesh'. Hesitantly, I asked the bus conductor if I could go to Rishikesh in his bus. He looked at me from head to feet. Smiled at me at first looking at my gear and bike. Then said, why not! come on in. I asked him how. He told me from the front door. I asked him, is my bike allowed? He told me why not if you are willing to pay for its ticket. To which I readily agreed and loaded my bike inside his bus and took it to the last seat.

"My Place In Bus"

Reached Rishikesh bus stand at 4:30 AM in the morning. It was all windy and a little chilly. I was not carrying any jacket or full length trousers with me. All I had were a couple of t-shirts, a full sleeve shirt and a couple of shorts including my padded shorts. Please carry a light jacket if you happen to be in Rishikesh sometime in March. The early mornings and nights are chilly. I rode my way from the bus stand to Laxman Jhula in search of an accommodation. The dogs here in Rishikesh were as curious as people back at Anand Vihar. The only difference was that they were just staring and the dogs here were all barking and chasing me. God knows if that was my weird getup, energy or the lights on my bike which captured the imagination of these dogs of Rishikesh. Fighting my fear and anxiety at every turn and sight of any dog or their group gatherings. I reached Laxman Jhula only to discover that shops were not open yet. I was advised to stay in Tapovan. I reached Tapovan to find out that Mount Valley Mama Cottage is full and there is no one at New Bhandari Swiss Cottage. Reluctantly I strolled my bike to NH7 and made a call to a campsite manager to book a tent.

 "Accommodation In Shivpuri"

After booking the tent I peddled my way on NH7 to Shivpuri. Reached Shivpuri. Had breakfast. Checked out the river which was flowing in full flow very close to where I was staying. Dumped most of my stuff; retaining some of the important ones like a pump, toolkit, lock, reflector jackets, lights and power bank; in the tent which I had booked and shot off on my bike for Devprayag! It is 55 Kms from Shivpuri and 68 from Rishikesh. It was 10:00 AM in the morning when I started from Shivpuri. Making calculations based on my approximation for my average speed on hills and trails, which is about 15-17 kmph, I came to a conclusion that it will take me 7.5 - 8.5 hours including a one hour break at Devprayag. So, in any case, I would have been back by 5:30 PM or at maximum by 6:30 PM. To which all I have to say now is "Never underestimate the gradients and climbs of a hill". Initially, it was all downhill and a little uphill to entice and augment the overconfidence which I had when I started. After 1.5 hours in the ride there started the back-breaking uphill climb. It was nearly 11:30 AM near noon and the sun was almost above my head glaring in its full glory.

As the climb it started I was very confident with my body, muscles, and experience. I had done many trails near Gurgaon Faridabad highway. Had attempted many climbs in the trails. All the images and memories of those conquered trails and climbs came to the mind. Switching to a low gear combination on chainrings and on the cassette. 2-3 or 2-2 or sometimes 2-1 was the gear combination I was compelled to use, on a chainring-cassette setup (in that order).  This was one climb that was not willing to end. I had to step further down on my 3 level chainring system to 1-3, 1-2 or 1-1 gear combination on certain stretches where the climb was steeper. I thought of making just one stop when I started initially. But this endless backbreaking climb made me stop midway at a rock where I drank water, caught my breath and clicking a few pictures moved on. It was kind of recollection stop. My legs were screaming at top of their voices "Please stop this madness". Which activated my vocal chords and made them utter a powerful scream "F*** it and I stopped.

"Stoppage Point"

"Photo Sessions Amidst Madness"

This time around the Sun was right above my head as I crawled my way to a small eating joint also known as 'dhaaba' in India. I ordered Yellow Split chickpeas lentils and rice. Which I was offered all on one plate. Never had food tasted so good in my entire life. It was heavenly, bliss, euphoria, call whatever you may! I suppose this should be the way to eat and digest food. I also had Limca with jaljeera (Mix of some spices with black salt) which is the best remedy for cramps or to avoid any foreseeable cramps. Normally I am not the kind of person who would ask anybody on a trek or be cycling expedition the question "how far is it?". But I was compelled to shoot this question to the shop owner "How much more do I have to climb?". To which the reply sounded so sonorous that even Adele couldn't match. He informed me coolly that it is just 2 KM of climb left. After which it is all downhill.

My Strava read 33.3 KM at this point. 33.3 Kilometers only! I was in shock at first. The amount of effort I have put in peddling my way till this point; if I would have applied the same amount of effort on a plain road my Strava was bound to cross 100-kilometer mark. This reading meant I still have to cover 22 Kilometers approximately 2 uphill and 20 downhill. This 20 downhill uplifted my spirits tremendously; which was all over the place in last 2.5 hours of endless spine breaking climbs. I took off again. My butts were pleading with me to not to put them back on that rocky saddle. But who listens to these poor butts anyways. 2 KM uphills as rightly pointed out by the food joint owner. Then the descent started. I was cruising. 50-60 KMPH on the downhill, cool wind on my face and legs, the green water of the Ganges flowing next to me, my heart was resounding a big, cliched word 'bliss'. Because there is nothing like absolute bliss when you are on a 100+km bike ride on mountains. What is uphill will be downhill and what is downhill is going to be uphill. The first practical lesson of 'Neti-Neti' learned and understood.

"Snaky and Twisted Roads Of The Mountains"

There is no point to be too depressed, and no point in being too happy. What is uphill will eventually be downhill and what is downhill is eventually going to be uphill. Finally, what exactly matters in this game of uphill and downhill is that you keep on pedaling, keep on learning, keep on moving, with a much-unaffected mind as one can. The following lines of the song "Mann Kasturi" from the movie Masan came to my mind.

उल्टा कर के देख सके तो
अम्बर भी है गहरी खाई||
(If you turn it upside down,
Even the sky is like a bottomless pit)

I  kind of grasped some experiential meaning of those two lines at that very moment. Not trying to get carried away by the thrill and excitement of the downhill section of the ride, I cruised my way closer to Devprayag. It was now in my sight. From a distance, at the top of a mountain, I could see the 2 tributaries meeting. The sight gave me an elated sense of relief and contentment. This was what I had come to see, and witness. 300+ Kilometers; 233 on a Bus and 67 on my bike; all the way from my home in Ghaziabad to this point in space. This is how a pilgrimage has to be done for some deeper or shallow spiritual experiences. Otherwise, you are just visiting another place, another touristic destination with your same old self. Nothing changes, nothing transpires really and there is no experience at all; deep or shallow.

"Devprayag - Spotted From a Distance"

I took me and my bike all the way down at the helm, the mouth or junction of this union also known as 'Prayag'. I drank the water directly from the river; making the freshly formed Ganga flow through my dry throat to my thirsty stomach. I for the first time experienced the feeling of 'one-ness' of what these mystics, Sufi poets, and spiritual teachers talk about in every literary work of theirs. I was grabbed with this thought that 60% of me is water, followed by an intense feeling that I am the river and the river is me. It lasted for only 6-10 seconds but it gave me a sense of sensitivity, what lifetimes cannot impart. I knew I have inched one more step closer to my roots, my being, and self.

"Adjacent to Devprayag"

I returned back to my tent/camp late at around 8:00 PM - 8:30 PM. Many times on my way back I felt intense pain and discomfort in my legs, butt, back, and palms. The thought "why me" came and went. I was calmer, more composed, and more in control of my being than what I was when I started. It was pitch dark after 7:00 PM and I almost rode for one and a half hour in that stark darkness. Still, there was something inside me which was automatically combating the fear which was culminating every now and then. This something I am sure was what the river gave me as a birthday gift in those 6-10 seconds of communion.

"Sunset - Marking The End Of A Day and A Beginning Of The Other"

A Short Poem Dedicated To My Backpack

"I always wonder why birds stay in the same place when they can fly anywhere on the earth. Then I ask myself the same question" – Harun Yahya

Kuari Pass Trek - A Short Trail Towards Nature And Self Day Two

This was the day of realizations. One realization/observation that hit me the hardest was the following while trekking alone:

"Trekking Day 2: The View Of Views"

"When on a trek; you are walking one step at a time, giving that one step your full attention and then to the next step, in moments of complete thoughtlessness. In those satori moments, when you get occasional chance to put your head up and look around. You see vastness in those open spaces and magnanimity in those mountains. Then a realization hits you. How petty and small are your troubles, apprehensions, fears, anxieties and the ego when compared to this. In these moments of truth you let go of your fear, anxieties, the ego and surrender. I call it a pilgrimage, people call it a trek."

People face difficulty sleeping in tents, but somehow sleep comes naturally to me in tents and outdoors. Having slept like a log I woke up fresh and expectant other day. After tea, breakfast we were all set to embark upon a sunny day of trekking and hiking ahead of us. 

This time we had only our official Guide with us. Mohan Jee (Our cook, also the acting guide for me on day 1) had to take a different route with the pony man to the next campsite. I was faster and more experienced in trekking than my fellow companions. So I was left with directions and instructions to fend on my own.

Trekking route on this particular trek has been trekked a lot, it being the most famous trek of the area. So the path is very clear and conspicuous; easily identifiable. Day 2 was many folds better than day 1 in terms of the following:

1. It had better view than what I had on day 1, Auli being a dampener with garbage and people.
2. I was all alone; filled with a loner's excitement; walking at my own pace, taking stops to read and relax.
3. The path was very beautifully crafted by all the walking and nature. There was a high point on this route with the name, Jhandidhaar. An ideal place to chill. It was windy, with soft and grassy ground to lie down, rocks to sit upon and eat one's lunch.   

"Trekking Day 2 The Route The Path"

Up till this point the trekking had been smooth and cruising. I took a long halt at the high point called Jhandidhaar for an hour and a half. Eating, reading, and sleeping. Which gave a chance to my fellow trekkers and guide to catch up with me. I too wanted this to happen as I had my doubts about the route as there were many going off in different directions from this point. Jhandidhaar like a crossing junction of trekking routes it became confusing which one to choose. Losing your path in mountains is not a very desirable situation to find yourself in. The rule : choosing the most distinct and visible path out of 2-3 different paths; seemed like it would not work here. 

"The Majestic Jhandhidhaar: Lunch Junction"

Even after taking directions from my guide I took a wrong path and got lost for a little while. I went to the opposite direction from where our tents were. It was still fun. It is not about losing your path, but about realization of being on the wrong path is important. In mountains it is about how quickly that realization comes, so you retract your steps before it is dark. I had ample time as it was only 2-3 in the afternoon, so I was not scared. I retracted my steps, took the other path this time and reached the camp to find everyone expectantly waiting for me. I was handed over my cup of tea which I drank with thorough delight, sunbathed, got wet in rain a little, read, slept and woke up again for dinner. 

“For what it’s worth: it’s never too late or, in my case, too early to be whoever you want to be. There’s no time limit, stop whenever you want. You can change or stay the same, there are no rules to this thing. We can make the best or the worst of it. I hope you make the best of it. And I hope you see things that startle you. I hope you feel things you never felt before. I hope you meet people with a different point of view. I hope you live a life you’re proud of. If you find that you’re not, I hope you have the courage to start all over again.”

― Eric Roth, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button

This last incident of losing the path and getting back so much reminded me of this epic screenplay dialogue from the epic movie. 

Kuari Pass Trek - A Short Trail Towards Nature And Self Day One

After sleeping off the tiredness; from the previous day's 20 hour long marathon road and rail journey; I woke up expectantly at 6:00 AM in the morning.

We had to leave for Auli; the starting point of our trek; on a hired jeep/taxi. 9:00 AM bang on schedule, finally our trek took off. I had been off cigarettes for 6 months and 5 days at the time. Let me take this opportunity to be condescending to people who are still into the habit and tell them, it is not worth it! I was witnessing a conspicuous positive change in myself as a result of leaving behind a bad habit of which I had been a slave for nearly 9 years.

"Wild Flowers And Shrubs - En route Taali, Kuari Pass Trek"

The environment was tiding itself up as we progressed our trek uphill and away from civilization. The air cleaned itself up miraculously, the scenery was changing every frame from magical to stupendous, and people were getting filtered out until only I and Mohan Jee (our cook) were left; laughing out loud and chatting animatedly. The path on the trek is not marked, but easily visible and identifiable. It is an easy trek, so no tricky curves, thin narrow paths, but an easy walk into the wild.

"On the way from Chonnya To Taali (Camp 1)"

In trekking there are campsites where there is water. Basically from Auli; on route of Kuari Pass Trek there are three campsites:

#Patihaar 
#Chonnya
#Taali

At first two campsite locations, i.e. Patihaar and Chonnya there was no water. My guide/cook Mohan Jee informed me that there had been a time some three to four years ago when there had been water at these two campsites all season long, which is now becoming scarce year after year. That was when I realized the extent of effect of global warming in its stark nakedness and not a mere conceptualization in a vicarious isolation.

"About to reach Taali - Kuari Pass Trek Path On Day One"

After 4.5 - 5 hours of walking we reached our first campsite; Taali. We all pitched our tents, had tea and went on with our own chores. I went into the woods with my book, notebook and pen. I found a spot under a tree where there was sunlight. Basking under the sun I was devouring the pages of my book. Suddenly my gaze fell upon my backpack which was lying in the corner of the kitchen tent. The entire tent was in dark with the exception of this very spot where lay my backpack. The sunlight was falling upon it like a spotlight. This sight compelled me to pull out my notebook and pen. 

"Campsite at Taali - The Kitchen Tent"

Next I was writing a poem on my backpack. After a 2 - 2.5 hours of fulfilling and uninterrupted reading and writing session; with a few pleasant disturbances of chirping of birds, humming of the bees, rustling of the leaves; I finally got up. Having finished the poem which I had started and the chapter that I was reading, I was pleased with the self, and with everything else.

"Bee's Eye View From Our Kitchen Tent"

By this time my fellow trekkers; a middle aged couple; too had arrived. Amidst the lighter moments of chatting, laughter and simple joys of life we broke our bread together. The food was prepared very well and served hot. 8:00 PM we were all in our tents, tucked in, ready to sleep and ready to wake up for the next day to come.

Following is the complete poem which I wrote sitting in the woods, under that benign sunlight:

A Poem Dedicated To My Backpack:

               "Our Backpacks With Mine In The Center"

"City you cannot hold her long with your tentacular grips
Because she is a woman of mountains and wild trips.
Your lights may amuse her in the nights but she loves sleeping under stars and moonlights.

The glitter and glamour that you throw at her it catches her attention, 
but it is the vast open spaces which has always been the fuel for her imagination.

City, in this ever changing world and surroundings, your role has been to state the obvious, 
whereas her wanderlust has been to unravel the inconspicuous.

She may seem to have city belongings, 
but mountains and wild have always been in her yearnings and longings.

The oscillating conflict in her had always been between whether to run away or stay,
Weather to follow her drapetomania, or to linger and delay."

Kuari Pass Trek - A Short Trail Towards Nature And Self Day Zero

This trek trip was planned very erratically. At the time when I decided to do this trek I was not feeling very comfortable with myself. The sheer uneasiness and discomfort which was brewing up inside me compelled me to make a decision to do this trek. In my right state of mind I would have never done this trek so sporadically. But here I was, on the phone with our family guide; Sohan Bisht Jee (Phone: 081267-42291 & 094103-65281; Email : sonubisht65@gmail.com). My initial plan was to do Valley of flowers trek, but fortunately that route was closed. When one door closes, another opens; Sohan Jee (Phone: 081267-42291 & 094103-65281; Email : sonubisht65@gmail.com) offered me to join two other people to do Kuari Pass Trek. The trek cost would have had been Rs. 1700- Rs. 1800 per day per head if one of my friend would have had joined me. It was 2000 per day per head without him, which was still very well under budget. Rs. 2000 per day per head included tents, food, guide, a cooking staff and an experience of a lifetime. 13th – 16th of May was the date range chosen for this trek.

#From Kashmere Gate To Joshimath – Trekking Starts On Day 0 

It is 6 hours journey from Delhi to Rishikesh (See my Rishikesh post for more details) and from Haridwar/Rishikesh it is still 10 – 11 hours journey to Joshimath. The latter part is literally a pain in the ass. One can only acquire a Jeep, Sumo, or Pilgrimage Bus to cover the latter part of this journey. Despite the rivers and the mountains accompanying you; the journey is assiduous and tiresome.

I reached Haridwar railway station at 4:30 AM and came to know that there are not many UK transport buses which ply from Haridwar to Joshimath at that hour, they start sometime after 5:30 AM. So I had to take one of the pilgrimage buses which were going to Badrinath - Kedarnath en route Joshimath. These buses are mostly pre-booked so all you get is a seat just behind the driver's seat for Rs. 400. Shared taxis also ply from Haridwar - Joshimath they charge you around Rs. 600 per passenger. My bus was full with pilgrims going to Badrinath so the bus had to take more than normal stops before breaking down 13 Kilometers short of Joshimath.

After 11 hours long tiring journey with a backdrop of 7 hours Train trip there was still 13 Kms to be covered to reach Joshimath.


For normal people the trek normally starts on Day 1. But that is for normal people. Trekking started for me on Day 0. I had to walk 7 Kilometers before a very kind young gentleman stopped and offered me a much needed lift in his car. I was tired, drenched and cold as it had started raining. Finally, I reached Joshimath at around 6:00 PM and ran into Sohan Bisht Jee (Phone: 081267-42291 & 094103-65281; Email : sonubisht65@gmail.com) and the other two fellow trekkers right away at a tea shop accidentally.

"View From The Hotel Room In Joshimath"

After having some tea; chai; I rented a room for sleeping off the tiredness from the marathon 20 hour long non-stop bus and train journey. Sleep came easily and early as I dozed off reading a few pages of Way of the peaceful warrior that night.

Sanasar, Jammu and Kashmir - A short trek to Shankhpal Temple (10,000feet)

"I always wonder why birds stay in the same place when they can fly anywhere on the earth. Then I ask myself the same question" – Harun Yahya

Sanasar is a place located 19 Kilometers from Patnitop. It is famous for its small local lakes. I went here through PYResorts  as a part of their 2 days weekend camping program. This was a very spontaneous and sudden trip that was made referring to the YHAI website where this program was hosted.

So the major chronological list of events of the trip are as follows:

8th April: Left for Udhampur from New Delhi
9th April: Reached Udhampur Railway Station, and from there reached Sanasar
10th April: Trek to Shankhpal Temple
11th April: Returned to New Delhi

#Reaching Sanasar From New Delhi

I booked the tickets for this trip just 12 days in advance and got it in Waiting List of Indian Railways ticketing system. If you are travelling on Delhi - Jammu - Katra route via train, be sure of getting waiting list tickets in case you are not booking it 3 months in advance because of many people going to Vaishno Devi. Our ticket was confirmed in Railway Quota. Thanks to my Grandfather who was in railway services. So in order to reach Sanasar, you need to get down at Udhampur.

From Udhampur one needs to reach Patnitop and from Patnitop, Sanasar is 20 Kilometers away. In order to reach Patnitop from Udhampur, one may find lots of private taxis outside the Udhampur railway station. They charge somewhere between Rs. 1000 - Rs. 1600 if done on a sharing basis with 4-6 people it comes around Rs. 250 - Rs. 400 per head. From Patnitop to Sanasar there are very limited buses. They start plying after 1 PM. If you reach Patnitop early, you can just roam around in this area have food and explore some nearby temples. If you take a taxi from Patnitop to Sanasar they are very expensive and will charge you Rs. 800 - Rs 1000 for it.

The route from Patnitop via Nathatop to Sanasar is very scenic and beautiful. This route can also prove to be an ideal one for Cycling. Sanasar is lesser crowded with tourists, but it is crowded if you compare it with Demul, Spiti. Sanasar has big wide open meadows with a natural lake at the center with distant mountain ranges surrounding the landscape.

#PYResorts - Camping, Accommodation, Stay

"Camp Fire at Sanasar,  PYResorts."

Our stay was accommodated by PYResorts. It was in the form of large tents with actual beds and electricity. Our stay was covered in Rs. 1500 for two days including food and the trek next day. It was raining when we reached the place, so I will recommend that you carry a Rain Coat when travelling to Sanasar as weather in hills can be very unpredictable. I got cold and wet in rain, but the hospitality of our hosts; which was a family with two kids; was warm and kind which made up for our troubles.

After changing clothes, I was offered food and tea alongside a fireplace. Food was simple Indian food and chai was extra sweet; Indian style milk tea. I had a hearty interaction with the kids and the owners of that place PYResorts (the parents of these two kids). We played a few knowledge games. After getting all warm and replenishing the lost energy, I was ready to go up and about exploring the nearby area. The kids were interested in playing football with me. So we all went near the Lake area in the open meadow. We played rock skipping on the lake, football in the open meadow, went to a nearby temple and by 6 PM came back to our camp ground.

At 8:00 PM dinner was served. PYResorts had the fire running beside which we all had our dinner. There was another group which has joined us. We all had food, chatted a little bit, and by 9 I retired to my tent; bed. It was a day well spent.

#Trek From Sanasar To Shankpal Temple

"400 Years Old Shankhpal Temple"

It was cold outside when I woke up next day at 7 AM. But it was good to see the sun shining in its full blast opposite to previous day's rain and cloud. In the sunlit morning we had our tea and breakfast, by this time one more member has joined our group from Banglore. There were 6 of us; including me and the guide; starting the trek from Sanasar to Shankhpal Temple. We were told that we would be going as far as we could with Shankhpal Temple being our last point (if we could make it that far).

Sanasar, Patnitop, Shankhpal, Temple, Trek, PYResorts, camping, Jammu & Kashmir

"Some Company Along The Way To Shankpal Temple, Sanasar"

The trek trail is all grassy and muddy at places. There are ample water sources on the way where you can replenish your water supplies. The trek is easy. It starts with an ascent followed by a flat walk then followed by an ascent till to top to Shankhpal Temple. We were told that it is 15 kilometers on one side from Sanasar to Shankhpal Temple, but my hunch says it is 11-12 kilometers only. You will find the Gulmarg mountain ranges on your right and the green meadows of Sanasar and Patnitop on your left. The route is not marked, but you will find many shepherds on the way who can guide you to the right path. One does not necessarily need a guide for this trek. We easily completed the trek in 5 hours. We started as a group of 6 but were left with 4 people when 2 members of our group decided to retract to Sanasar for which I am still thankful to them, otherwise we would have not been able to make it all the way up to the top till Shankhpal Temple.

Sanasar, Patnitop, Shankhpal, Temple, Trek, PYResorts, camping, Jammu & Kashmir

"The Muddy Trail To Shankhpal Temple"

Don't expect snow on this trek if you are doing it in March-May-July. When we reached the top where Shankhpal Temple is located (2897 Meters) we were been given a complimentary gift by nature in form of a snow patch which was still there. We completed the entire trek in 5 hours - 5.5 hours, bringing back some snow for the two of our fellow campers; who left the trek midway for us.

"On the way back from Shankpal Temple Peak"

“Bahujanahitāya bahujanasukhāya lokānukampāya:

For the good of the many, for the happiness of the many, out of compassion for the world.” 
― Gautama Buddha

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2-3. Days of New Friendships and Realizations

The following are the entries in my Travel Journal of the last remaining days of this trip:

# Saw another guide and a foreigner dashing past me when I was returning from Ilaaka area. First emotion had been of jealousy. They were going towards Lahesh Cave which I had so recently given up. Then this negative feeling melted away and turned itself into good wishes and of admiration towards these two.

# Discovered that the foreigner's name is Shane and his nationality is New Zealand. He and his guide Mahendra had made it till Lahesh Cave. Felt genuine respect and adulation towards these two.

# Weather getting worse from bad.

# Had warm and hearty chats with Shane, a French couple, Sukhi and Herman from the Indian Air Force Services. Ate, Drank Tea, Coffee.

# Hail Storm, from Low to Medium to Death Metal followed by silent snowfall (Simon and Garfunkel) 

# Dinner at 8. Feeling scared and anxious as weather getting worse and worse.

DAY 5

# Woke up at 6:30.

# No improvement in weather conditions. Not feeling scared anymore. Slept well over my last night's fear and anxiousness. Feeling a lot better instead of worsening weather conditions outside.

# 10:00 AM - Had breakfast and coffee with Shane and the Airforce soldiers. A weather window opened up. The heavy winds and snow they stopped. Till now god was playing and pausing the winds and snow. Now he has pressed the stop button on it.

# This was our weather window to start the descend. The airforce group had decided to stay. Shane and Mahendra have decided to make it for Triund. My decision was to follow Shane and Mahendra the guide as all the yellow markings and the trail path are buried in heavy layers of fresh snow.

                   "On The Way To Triund"

# Feeling more confident walking on snow.

# Came back to Triund safely in record time of 50-60 minutes.

                  "Triund Covered In Snow"

# Had tea, chit chatted in general at Triund.

# From Triund everything was a cakewalk. We came storming down; jesting and laughing, with periods of silent descend. Picked up all the litter and garbage along the way in my rucksack's rain cover.

# Reached Mcleodganj. Had sumptuous lunch with Shane at a Tibetan restaurant. Noodles and rice in Thai Vegetable curry. Peach iced tea and banana shake to gulp it all down.

# Shared the contact details. Wished each other luck and parted.

# Collected all my leftover belongings from Dharamkot in the midst of heavy hailstorm. 

# Booked my bus to Delhi for 7:00 PM. Bus on time. 7:15 PM started for Delhi.

# BIRTHDAY WELL SPENT

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2 - Strolling And Fooling Around Can Be Fun Too!

#Strolling Around

After the snowfall was over, the entire snowline - Illaka area was covered in Snow. I took a long walk to the nearby places testing my new Quechua Forclaz 100 which I got as a Birthday gift from my Aunts. This shoe is brilliant. It has good grip especially on snow. Also it is about 75-80% waterproof. I would recommend that you should always buy trekking shoes one size bigger than your normal size. I did what I preach, following this useful advice from the book Wild by Cheryl Strayed. It provided me that extra space and cushion during descends while protecting my toes from getting hurt or crushed. A pair of good trekking shoes has the capability of transforming your trekking experience from a good one to an awesome one. I had never realized the power of right gears and equipment until now. @Chidiyyaaa and @meera.in.me had also gifted me a pair of warm track pants from Adidas. I would like to use this opportunity to thank them and my Aunts for such utilitarian gifts. These gifts enriched and enhanced my overall trekking experience many folds.

"Indrahar Pass Mountain Range, Covered with Clouds"

I was missing a Guide at this point in time. Being alone and walking unknown paths sounds adventurous. But no matter how much adventurous it may sound, one should always think and operate in certain comfort level when dealing with nature. Keep a feeling of respect and reverence towards nature and it will treat you the same way. I can see the way towards Lahesh Cave from Illaka, but as the weather was unpredictable and I had my own apprehensions about snow and snowfalls, I abstained myself from taking that path. I retracted my steps back to Snowline cafe camp with a heavy heart. I was also getting hungry and the Snowfall was growing heavy too. 

#Hijacking A Group Guide

I was alone in the Snowline Cafe Mansion sipping my tea, eating bread omelette and talking to the shop owner about the possibility of people coming in such bad weather. As we were speaking I heard some voices and saw a group of 3 people approaching the cafe. They were going further towards Illaka. They had a Guide. I thought I will go with them farther into the Illaka area and if I feel confident and good I will go to Lahesh Cave alone. This Guide had 2 clients with him. They both were from Delhi. They were good and kind people, but were not very good hikers. They gave up mid way between Snowline cafe and Illaka. Their Guide and I made it all the way to Illaka area leaving the other two midway on a snow cliff stuck and struggling. 

"Hijacking the Group Guide"

"Mission Accomplished. Guide Hijacked!"

We both were happy to reach the destined location. But I wanted to go further all the way to Lahesh cave. So after taking a few selfies I asked the Guide about the way. He advised me not to go alone in such bad weather but showed me the path to Lahesh Cave anyways. I was in a limbo. Then something clicked and I finally gave up on Lahesh Cave in my mind and heart. I thought may be this is not the right time, may be some other time. I made a mental note that I will be coming here and doing the Indrahar Pass Trek next year. Our guide took some more pictures and asked me if I wished to return to Snowline Cafe with him. I said yes with a heavy heart and we both made our way back to Snowline Cafe, picking our abandoned, half dead trekking soldiers on the way.  

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – Day 2 - First Snowfall

#Campfire And Time To Sleep

Snowline Cafe, 5th Of March. There were 10 of us who stayed back at Snowline cafe after the cafe owner asked a group to return to Triund as there was scarcity of space. We all collected woods from the nearby area for the evening's campfire, spreading out community vibes. This group of 9 people consisted of 6 students and 3 working class people. It was good fun. The kids were doing Engineering from a modest college in Chandigarh. We had the fire going. It was getting chilly as the night was progressing. We laughed, joked sitting in a circle around the fire. The college lads brought freshness to the group with their silly jokes and pranks. The 3 adults were more and partly serious but avidly took part in the silly conversation that was going on about girlfriend issues. At 9 PM our host called us in for food. by 9:30 we all were in our spot, ready to sleep. The place was all crammed and packed with 10 sleeping bodies lying adolescent to each other. We all slept sound and well in tiredness in spite of the discomfort of the place.

#First Snowfall

“I was in love, and the feeling was even more wonderful than I ever imagined it could be.” 
― Nicholas Sparks

First hand experiences are always better than vicarious experiences. Moreover if you are experiencing it for the first time. 4:30 AM was on the clock and 6th of March on the calendar. I was woken up by gushes of water droplets hitting my face. It was still dark outside, I thought it is raining as I was checking my sleeping bag for any kind of serious wetness. There was no cover on the front entry of the shop from where the gush of wind was bringing water droplets inside. I was getting more and more worried about my sleeping bag getting wet. I managed to find a spare blanket. I pulled it on top of my sleeping bag and face. I went to sleep after this. I woke up at 6:30 AM; when the sun had just started to come out; with everyone else. When I looked outside what was green a few hours ago has turned itself into white. It was not rain but snowfall that was taking place since 4:30 AM in the morning. It was still snowing outside. This was me witnessing my first snowfall of my life and that too on my Birthday. This was nature's birthday gift for me.

"Snowline Cafe Submerged Under Fresh Snow"

All the young lads went crazy at the site of fresh snow outside. I broke the news about my birthday to others at this point. There was jubilation, excitement and happiness in the air. Everyone congratulated me. We all played a little in the snow and took group pictures with the college gang. The college lads and the 3 adults had to leave, We bode our goodbyes and thanked each other for the wonderful time that we have spent together. 

After they left, I had the entire day at my disposal. The thought of this prospect made me feel expectantly happy and hesitantly unsure because I had Lahesh Cave in my sight and fresh snow under my feet. My experience of  walking on snow is very limited and sketchy. So after Breakfast I went out to survey the fresh snow. Walked to near by places, getting my feet and body adjusted to walking on snow. Building my confidence and enjoying everything that was unfolding on this day. 

  

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka – The Trek Starts

#To Triund and Beyond

Next day was Saturday on 5th of March 2016. I had checked the weather on Accuweather for Triund before planning my trip. It said that 3rd and 4th will be bright and sunny (These were the days spent in Dharamkot, sunbathing), 5th and 6th will be rainy and cold with thunderstorms and hailstorms (These were the days chosen for trekking and to be spent in snowline cafe and Lehash cave). I had a good raincoat which I had bought in Mcleodganj and a good backpack rain cover with me. The morning was overcast with clouds in the sky. I was all set and ready to start the trek on this fine morning. 

After a sumptuous Indian Breakfast at Radha Cafe in Dharamkot the trek had started. It is not even a trek but a 8 km walk in hills. Soon after walking for 3 hours and 15 minutes I reached Triund at 1:45 PM. Weather in these kind of areas is very unpredictable. It is always a good Idea to carry a raincoat with you as there were spats of rain here and there on the way. 

"On The Way - Triund"

After reaching Triund I observed an unusually high volume of crowd of 30 - 40 people in the area. Normally such places are devoid of people. I took some pictures, inquired about the price for securing a spot in shops to sleep and eat. It was Rs. 250 for a night's stay and Rs 130 per plate of Rice and kidney bean Curry. I had planned to stay in Triund for a day and leave for Snowline and Ilaka the next day on my Birthday. But after seeing swarms of people coming in and overhearing a few people talking about going to Snowline and their plans to stay there, I changed my mind instantaneously and decided to leave for Snowline right away after tea. "Instinctive decisions are the best decisions" this idea has been emphasized very well in Malcom Gladwell's book Blink. This has again been proven right.

"After Reaching Triund"

Snowline cafe has a maximum stay capacity of 12-13 people inside the shop. Given the fact the weather was going to get bad, pitching tents would have been risky. I somehow foresaw that Snowline cafe too is going to get crowded and there would be a fight for space. I literally pushed  myself towards Snowline cafe. There was a situation here and with that a sense of great alacrity. Within 1 hour 30-45 minutes I was at Snowline cafe leaving behind 2 large groups of students.

When I reached snowline cafe, there was no one else there but the shop owner. I booked my sweet spot, by planting my backpack in a spot inside the shop. I had a word with the shop owner about the price, it was nearly the same as what was in Triund. I also informed him about the 2 large groups approaching his establishment for which he was happy. I had some omelette bread, and tea to gulp it down with. I was a happy chap after securing food and lodging. 

I took off my new Quechua Forclaz 100 to put on my Quechua Arpenaz 200 Sandals in order to take a stroll in nearby area. The feeling was of happiness and contentment with nothing to do but just to be. 

"Sunset from Snowline - Ilaka"

Birthday Bash! Dharamkot - Triund - Snowline - Ilaka - Initial Days

#To Catch A Moving Bus

It was 2nd of March 2016 and I had a 9:22 PM bus to catch. With that in mind I got up and got ready to leave for office early that day. The dilemma was whether or not to go to office on cycle. After a few deliberations I decided on going to office on Cycle that day. I reached office at 1 PM thinking that I will mark half day and leave office early at 6:30. Feeling confident that 3 hours will be more than enough to reach ISBT from my den in Noida. I was forgetting or rather ignoring the fact that I was on cycle and there had been no packing done. I left office (which is 15 kms. away from my home) at 6:30 PM and started cycling towards my home. Reached home at 7:30 PM with less than 2 hours in my hands.

Now was the time that I started getting scared of the fact that I will miss my bus. I was packing my backpack with very little time left for thinking what to pick and what not to pick. In the end my rucksack was jam packed with jacket and shoes hanging out from it. I wish I had more time, because I then realized that my backpack had 60-70%  useless contents which I was never going to use on my trip. Here I would like to throw a list of essentials to pack, rest all is useless:

1) 2-3 T-shirts
2) 1 or 2 pair of Jeans
3) 2 warm track pants
4) 2-3 underwear
5) 2 pair of socks
6) Heart and will

Backpack - Finally Packed, Jam Packed

Finally I reached ISBT at 9:30 PM, running, huffing and puffing. When I reached the Himachal Transport stand I came to know that my bus had left. I was in shock and despair for a few minutes, then another person told me to run as the bus is still in the process of leaving and showed me the moving bus. I ran with all my might towards the bus with my heavy bag and eventually caught it. I was grinning from ear to ear and must have been looking so crazy that everyone in the bus was staring at me. A thought crossed my mind "The whole is greater than the sum of its parts" by Aristotle.

#Dharamkot and Mcleodganj

Next day I was in Mcleodganj. I had to buy mattress and raincoat as I was planning to sleep in Lahesh Cave for one day and not to get myself wet. I bought those two items for Rs. 1000, 500 each. I reached Dharamkot; which is 2-3 Kilometers walk from Mcleodganj; late in the morning. It is always wise to stay in Dharamkot as it is quieter, less crowded, and cheaper than Mcleodganj. After booking my room for Rs. 500 a day at Paul Room Service I headed out for Breakfast.  Nothing beats the Indian Breakfast in sumptuousness and fulfillness. I had a filling breakfast after which I strolled, read, and relaxed in the Dharamkot area till evening and after dinner slept early.

Indian Breakfast At Trek And Dine, Dharamkot

Next day after sleeping off the tiredness and having breakfast I decided to go for evening group sitting in Dhamma Sikhara for Vipassana.  This center is closed till mid March is what I came to learn from the locals. As I was returning from the center I observed the shops being closed. After walking a few steps I saw a funeral march of someone who had died a few hours ago the same day. The entire town was a part of that march as I could see some familiar faces of local shop owners and workers. I too said my prayers for the dead and walked on. All the shops in the area were closed. I retired to my room feeling uneasy and disturbed. Later on after my meditation I went to sought my dinner. It was dark and all the lights in the town were shut off and all the shops and restaurants in the area were closed too. I came to know that this was to pay homage to the dead. The dead was no monk, no politician but an ordinary citizen who has died a natural death out of old age. I was literally moved upon encountering such solidarity and community feeling which so much is absent from where I belong. I found a small restaurant open. They too had all the lights off, so I had my silent and reflective dinner under candle light and went to sleep right after it.