"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived"
-Henry David Thoreau
I cannot live at the extremities to which HDT lived but I can always live the essence of his line of living. But I strongly agree with "when I came to die, discover that I had not lived". I too want to die with as lesser regrets as possible. The only way to achieve that is to try to live as fiercely as possible. That is something I had been trying to do since the year I left Smoking and Drinking. Every year on my birthday from last 2 years I have gone on a Trek and a Cycling trip from Delhi to Agra To Jaipur and Back. This year had been no different. I had been thinking of going from Rishikesh to Devprayag on a Cycle for a long time now. What could be a better day to attempt this feat than my 31st Birthday?
The thought of attempting this route on a cycle had been germinating in my mind since the day I went on a trek in Joshimath and saw Bhagirathi and Alakhnanda merging together to make Ganga for the first time. It captured my imagination when I tried Delhi to Rishikesh on a cycle sometime before. But could not go till Devprayag due to lack of experience, confidence, stamina, energy, and equipment. This time around I had everything. A good Mountain Bike, some off-roading experience; in Aravali hills near Gurgaon - Faridabad highway; better stamina, cleaner lungs and stronger legs with 9, 500+ kilometers on the saddle till date.
There was a feeling of reluctance in my mind on the day I had to leave for Rishikesh. This procrastinating continued until the next day, a day after the decided day when I was supposed to leave; due to something going on in my personal life. I was not sure of leaving even the day, the hour before I actually left for it. Anyways a day and 3/4th late finally I left my home for this trip on my Scott Aspect 740 large frame, 27.5 incher MTB. At 9:30 PM, I thought of catching the bus for Rishikesh from Anand Vihar ISBT which is quite near my house. Tackling the maddening crowd, staring eyes, and some turning heads towards mounted headlights, taillights on my bike, and reflector jacket on my shoulders; I reached my destination. As I rushed through to Uttrakhand Transportation Corporation's ticket counter, a middle-aged uncle (every unknown person in India is either uncle, aunty, bhaiya (brother) or madam) told me that there are no buses from here to Rishikesh and I need to goto Kashmere Gate ISBT. Again tackling the crowd, its stares, glances, and exclamations like oh Teri! (damn); which was another 17-19 Km from where I was; I peddled my to Kashmere Gate at 9:45 PM carrying along the fear of dogs, hesitancy of catching the bus, and if they would allow my cycle to travel with me without a prior booking; with me.
As I reached the gates of Delhi's biggest Bus station from where every bus left for their respective destinations, I happened to see a board in Hindi reading 'Rishikesh'. Hesitantly, I asked the bus conductor if I could go to Rishikesh in his bus. He looked at me from head to feet. Smiled at me at first looking at my gear and bike. Then said, why not! come on in. I asked him how. He told me from the front door. I asked him, is my bike allowed? He told me why not if you are willing to pay for its ticket. To which I readily agreed and loaded my bike inside his bus and took it to the last seat.
Reached Rishikesh bus stand at 4:30 AM in the morning. It was all windy and a little chilly. I was not carrying any jacket or full length trousers with me. All I had were a couple of t-shirts, a full sleeve shirt and a couple of shorts including my padded shorts. Please carry a light jacket if you happen to be in Rishikesh sometime in March. The early mornings and nights are chilly. I rode my way from the bus stand to Laxman Jhula in search of an accommodation. The dogs here in Rishikesh were as curious as people back at Anand Vihar. The only difference was that they were just staring and the dogs here were all barking and chasing me. God knows if that was my weird getup, energy or the lights on my bike which captured the imagination of these dogs of Rishikesh. Fighting my fear and anxiety at every turn and sight of any dog or their group gatherings. I reached Laxman Jhula only to discover that shops were not open yet. I was advised to stay in Tapovan. I reached Tapovan to find out that Mount Valley Mama Cottage is full and there is no one at New Bhandari Swiss Cottage. Reluctantly I strolled my bike to NH7 and made a call to a campsite manager to book a tent.
After booking the tent I peddled my way on NH7 to Shivpuri. Reached Shivpuri. Had breakfast. Checked out the river which was flowing in full flow very close to where I was staying. Dumped most of my stuff; retaining some of the important ones like a pump, toolkit, lock, reflector jackets, lights and power bank; in the tent which I had booked and shot off on my bike for Devprayag! It is 55 Kms from Shivpuri and 68 from Rishikesh. It was 10:00 AM in the morning when I started from Shivpuri. Making calculations based on my approximation for my average speed on hills and trails, which is about 15-17 kmph, I came to a conclusion that it will take me 7.5 - 8.5 hours including a one hour break at Devprayag. So, in any case, I would have been back by 5:30 PM or at maximum by 6:30 PM. To which all I have to say now is "Never underestimate the gradients and climbs of a hill". Initially, it was all downhill and a little uphill to entice and augment the overconfidence which I had when I started. After 1.5 hours in the ride there started the back-breaking uphill climb. It was nearly 11:30 AM near noon and the sun was almost above my head glaring in its full glory.
As the climb it started I was very confident with my body, muscles, and experience. I had done many trails near Gurgaon Faridabad highway. Had attempted many climbs in the trails. All the images and memories of those conquered trails and climbs came to the mind. Switching to a low gear combination on chainrings and on the cassette. 2-3 or 2-2 or sometimes 2-1 was the gear combination I was compelled to use, on a chainring-cassette setup (in that order). This was one climb that was not willing to end. I had to step further down on my 3 level chainring system to 1-3, 1-2 or 1-1 gear combination on certain stretches where the climb was steeper. I thought of making just one stop when I started initially. But this endless backbreaking climb made me stop midway at a rock where I drank water, caught my breath and clicking a few pictures moved on. It was kind of recollection stop. My legs were screaming at top of their voices "Please stop this madness". Which activated my vocal chords and made them utter a powerful scream "F*** it and I stopped.
This time around the Sun was right above my head as I crawled my way to a small eating joint also known as 'dhaaba' in India. I ordered Yellow Split chickpeas lentils and rice. Which I was offered all on one plate. Never had food tasted so good in my entire life. It was heavenly, bliss, euphoria, call whatever you may! I suppose this should be the way to eat and digest food. I also had Limca with jaljeera (Mix of some spices with black salt) which is the best remedy for cramps or to avoid any foreseeable cramps. Normally I am not the kind of person who would ask anybody on a trek or be cycling expedition the question "how far is it?". But I was compelled to shoot this question to the shop owner "How much more do I have to climb?". To which the reply sounded so sonorous that even Adele couldn't match. He informed me coolly that it is just 2 KM of climb left. After which it is all downhill.
My Strava read 33.3 KM at this point. 33.3 Kilometers only! I was in shock at first. The amount of effort I have put in peddling my way till this point; if I would have applied the same amount of effort on a plain road my Strava was bound to cross 100-kilometer mark. This reading meant I still have to cover 22 Kilometers approximately 2 uphill and 20 downhill. This 20 downhill uplifted my spirits tremendously; which was all over the place in last 2.5 hours of endless spine breaking climbs. I took off again. My butts were pleading with me to not to put them back on that rocky saddle. But who listens to these poor butts anyways. 2 KM uphills as rightly pointed out by the food joint owner. Then the descent started. I was cruising. 50-60 KMPH on the downhill, cool wind on my face and legs, the green water of the Ganges flowing next to me, my heart was resounding a big, cliched word 'bliss'. Because there is nothing like absolute bliss when you are on a 100+km bike ride on mountains. What is uphill will be downhill and what is downhill is going to be uphill. The first practical lesson of 'Neti-Neti' learned and understood.
There is no point to be too depressed, and no point in being too happy. What is uphill will eventually be downhill and what is downhill is eventually going to be uphill. Finally, what exactly matters in this game of uphill and downhill is that you keep on pedaling, keep on learning, keep on moving, with a much-unaffected mind as one can. The following lines of the song "Mann Kasturi" from the movie Masan came to my mind.
उल्टा कर के देख सके तो
अम्बर भी है गहरी खाई||
(If you turn it upside down,
Even the sky is like a bottomless pit)
I kind of grasped some experiential meaning of those two lines at that very moment. Not trying to get carried away by the thrill and excitement of the downhill section of the ride, I cruised my way closer to Devprayag. It was now in my sight. From a distance, at the top of a mountain, I could see the 2 tributaries meeting. The sight gave me an elated sense of relief and contentment. This was what I had come to see, and witness. 300+ Kilometers; 233 on a Bus and 67 on my bike; all the way from my home in Ghaziabad to this point in space. This is how a pilgrimage has to be done for some deeper or shallow spiritual experiences. Otherwise, you are just visiting another place, another touristic destination with your same old self. Nothing changes, nothing transpires really and there is no experience at all; deep or shallow.
I took me and my bike all the way down at the helm, the mouth or junction of this union also known as 'Prayag'. I drank the water directly from the river; making the freshly formed Ganga flow through my dry throat to my thirsty stomach. I for the first time experienced the feeling of 'one-ness' of what these mystics, Sufi poets, and spiritual teachers talk about in every literary work of theirs. I was grabbed with this thought that 60% of me is water, followed by an intense feeling that I am the river and the river is me. It lasted for only 6-10 seconds but it gave me a sense of sensitivity, what lifetimes cannot impart. I knew I have inched one more step closer to my roots, my being, and self.
I returned back to my tent/camp late at around 8:00 PM - 8:30 PM. Many times on my way back I felt intense pain and discomfort in my legs, butt, back, and palms. The thought "why me" came and went. I was calmer, more composed, and more in control of my being than what I was when I started. It was pitch dark after 7:00 PM and I almost rode for one and a half hour in that stark darkness. Still, there was something inside me which was automatically combating the fear which was culminating every now and then. This something I am sure was what the river gave me as a birthday gift in those 6-10 seconds of communion.
-Henry David Thoreau
I cannot live at the extremities to which HDT lived but I can always live the essence of his line of living. But I strongly agree with "when I came to die, discover that I had not lived". I too want to die with as lesser regrets as possible. The only way to achieve that is to try to live as fiercely as possible. That is something I had been trying to do since the year I left Smoking and Drinking. Every year on my birthday from last 2 years I have gone on a Trek and a Cycling trip from Delhi to Agra To Jaipur and Back. This year had been no different. I had been thinking of going from Rishikesh to Devprayag on a Cycle for a long time now. What could be a better day to attempt this feat than my 31st Birthday?
The thought of attempting this route on a cycle had been germinating in my mind since the day I went on a trek in Joshimath and saw Bhagirathi and Alakhnanda merging together to make Ganga for the first time. It captured my imagination when I tried Delhi to Rishikesh on a cycle sometime before. But could not go till Devprayag due to lack of experience, confidence, stamina, energy, and equipment. This time around I had everything. A good Mountain Bike, some off-roading experience; in Aravali hills near Gurgaon - Faridabad highway; better stamina, cleaner lungs and stronger legs with 9, 500+ kilometers on the saddle till date.
There was a feeling of reluctance in my mind on the day I had to leave for Rishikesh. This procrastinating continued until the next day, a day after the decided day when I was supposed to leave; due to something going on in my personal life. I was not sure of leaving even the day, the hour before I actually left for it. Anyways a day and 3/4th late finally I left my home for this trip on my Scott Aspect 740 large frame, 27.5 incher MTB. At 9:30 PM, I thought of catching the bus for Rishikesh from Anand Vihar ISBT which is quite near my house. Tackling the maddening crowd, staring eyes, and some turning heads towards mounted headlights, taillights on my bike, and reflector jacket on my shoulders; I reached my destination. As I rushed through to Uttrakhand Transportation Corporation's ticket counter, a middle-aged uncle (every unknown person in India is either uncle, aunty, bhaiya (brother) or madam) told me that there are no buses from here to Rishikesh and I need to goto Kashmere Gate ISBT. Again tackling the crowd, its stares, glances, and exclamations like oh Teri! (damn); which was another 17-19 Km from where I was; I peddled my to Kashmere Gate at 9:45 PM carrying along the fear of dogs, hesitancy of catching the bus, and if they would allow my cycle to travel with me without a prior booking; with me.
As I reached the gates of Delhi's biggest Bus station from where every bus left for their respective destinations, I happened to see a board in Hindi reading 'Rishikesh'. Hesitantly, I asked the bus conductor if I could go to Rishikesh in his bus. He looked at me from head to feet. Smiled at me at first looking at my gear and bike. Then said, why not! come on in. I asked him how. He told me from the front door. I asked him, is my bike allowed? He told me why not if you are willing to pay for its ticket. To which I readily agreed and loaded my bike inside his bus and took it to the last seat.
"My Place In Bus"
Reached Rishikesh bus stand at 4:30 AM in the morning. It was all windy and a little chilly. I was not carrying any jacket or full length trousers with me. All I had were a couple of t-shirts, a full sleeve shirt and a couple of shorts including my padded shorts. Please carry a light jacket if you happen to be in Rishikesh sometime in March. The early mornings and nights are chilly. I rode my way from the bus stand to Laxman Jhula in search of an accommodation. The dogs here in Rishikesh were as curious as people back at Anand Vihar. The only difference was that they were just staring and the dogs here were all barking and chasing me. God knows if that was my weird getup, energy or the lights on my bike which captured the imagination of these dogs of Rishikesh. Fighting my fear and anxiety at every turn and sight of any dog or their group gatherings. I reached Laxman Jhula only to discover that shops were not open yet. I was advised to stay in Tapovan. I reached Tapovan to find out that Mount Valley Mama Cottage is full and there is no one at New Bhandari Swiss Cottage. Reluctantly I strolled my bike to NH7 and made a call to a campsite manager to book a tent.
"Accommodation In Shivpuri"
After booking the tent I peddled my way on NH7 to Shivpuri. Reached Shivpuri. Had breakfast. Checked out the river which was flowing in full flow very close to where I was staying. Dumped most of my stuff; retaining some of the important ones like a pump, toolkit, lock, reflector jackets, lights and power bank; in the tent which I had booked and shot off on my bike for Devprayag! It is 55 Kms from Shivpuri and 68 from Rishikesh. It was 10:00 AM in the morning when I started from Shivpuri. Making calculations based on my approximation for my average speed on hills and trails, which is about 15-17 kmph, I came to a conclusion that it will take me 7.5 - 8.5 hours including a one hour break at Devprayag. So, in any case, I would have been back by 5:30 PM or at maximum by 6:30 PM. To which all I have to say now is "Never underestimate the gradients and climbs of a hill". Initially, it was all downhill and a little uphill to entice and augment the overconfidence which I had when I started. After 1.5 hours in the ride there started the back-breaking uphill climb. It was nearly 11:30 AM near noon and the sun was almost above my head glaring in its full glory.
As the climb it started I was very confident with my body, muscles, and experience. I had done many trails near Gurgaon Faridabad highway. Had attempted many climbs in the trails. All the images and memories of those conquered trails and climbs came to the mind. Switching to a low gear combination on chainrings and on the cassette. 2-3 or 2-2 or sometimes 2-1 was the gear combination I was compelled to use, on a chainring-cassette setup (in that order). This was one climb that was not willing to end. I had to step further down on my 3 level chainring system to 1-3, 1-2 or 1-1 gear combination on certain stretches where the climb was steeper. I thought of making just one stop when I started initially. But this endless backbreaking climb made me stop midway at a rock where I drank water, caught my breath and clicking a few pictures moved on. It was kind of recollection stop. My legs were screaming at top of their voices "Please stop this madness". Which activated my vocal chords and made them utter a powerful scream "F*** it and I stopped.
"Stoppage Point"
"Photo Sessions Amidst Madness"
This time around the Sun was right above my head as I crawled my way to a small eating joint also known as 'dhaaba' in India. I ordered Yellow Split chickpeas lentils and rice. Which I was offered all on one plate. Never had food tasted so good in my entire life. It was heavenly, bliss, euphoria, call whatever you may! I suppose this should be the way to eat and digest food. I also had Limca with jaljeera (Mix of some spices with black salt) which is the best remedy for cramps or to avoid any foreseeable cramps. Normally I am not the kind of person who would ask anybody on a trek or be cycling expedition the question "how far is it?". But I was compelled to shoot this question to the shop owner "How much more do I have to climb?". To which the reply sounded so sonorous that even Adele couldn't match. He informed me coolly that it is just 2 KM of climb left. After which it is all downhill.
My Strava read 33.3 KM at this point. 33.3 Kilometers only! I was in shock at first. The amount of effort I have put in peddling my way till this point; if I would have applied the same amount of effort on a plain road my Strava was bound to cross 100-kilometer mark. This reading meant I still have to cover 22 Kilometers approximately 2 uphill and 20 downhill. This 20 downhill uplifted my spirits tremendously; which was all over the place in last 2.5 hours of endless spine breaking climbs. I took off again. My butts were pleading with me to not to put them back on that rocky saddle. But who listens to these poor butts anyways. 2 KM uphills as rightly pointed out by the food joint owner. Then the descent started. I was cruising. 50-60 KMPH on the downhill, cool wind on my face and legs, the green water of the Ganges flowing next to me, my heart was resounding a big, cliched word 'bliss'. Because there is nothing like absolute bliss when you are on a 100+km bike ride on mountains. What is uphill will be downhill and what is downhill is going to be uphill. The first practical lesson of 'Neti-Neti' learned and understood.
"Snaky and Twisted Roads Of The Mountains"
There is no point to be too depressed, and no point in being too happy. What is uphill will eventually be downhill and what is downhill is eventually going to be uphill. Finally, what exactly matters in this game of uphill and downhill is that you keep on pedaling, keep on learning, keep on moving, with a much-unaffected mind as one can. The following lines of the song "Mann Kasturi" from the movie Masan came to my mind.
अम्बर भी है गहरी खाई||
(If you turn it upside down,
Even the sky is like a bottomless pit)
I kind of grasped some experiential meaning of those two lines at that very moment. Not trying to get carried away by the thrill and excitement of the downhill section of the ride, I cruised my way closer to Devprayag. It was now in my sight. From a distance, at the top of a mountain, I could see the 2 tributaries meeting. The sight gave me an elated sense of relief and contentment. This was what I had come to see, and witness. 300+ Kilometers; 233 on a Bus and 67 on my bike; all the way from my home in Ghaziabad to this point in space. This is how a pilgrimage has to be done for some deeper or shallow spiritual experiences. Otherwise, you are just visiting another place, another touristic destination with your same old self. Nothing changes, nothing transpires really and there is no experience at all; deep or shallow.
"Devprayag - Spotted From a Distance"
"Adjacent to Devprayag"
"Sunset - Marking The End Of A Day and A Beginning Of The Other"
