Preparations:
The marking of year 2016 started with a trip planning activity to visit Rishikesh and attend Krishna Das' concert (For those who don't know Rishikesh and KD: Rishikesh is a holy city in India where Ganges flows and KD is a chanting rock star a.k.a BhajanWallah!). The responsibility of booking tickets was entrusted upon me by my two fellow travel companions. Let’s call them Titli and Chidiya (I am so going to get killed for this). When it comes to travelling towards hills and states like Himachal Pradesh and Uttrakhand in India; with my previous travel experiences; I have my complete faith and trust in State managed road Transportation. With the same trust and faith on 27th December 2015 I went to Uttrakhand Road Transportation's website and booked 3 tickets for 15th January 2016 and a set of return tickets along with. Rs. 724 ($10.71) per head for one side; 232 km or 144 Mile; journey in a Volvo Bus! Booking done; online.
Now came the part where arrangements were to be made
for accommodations and KD's (Krishna Das) concert tickets. Concert tickets was
not my responsibility so I was not worried much about it. Initially I was
making arrangements for accommodations keeping in mind my two female
companions. So both aspects i.e. safety and budget had to be kept in mind. I
made two calls to enquire at two places: Red Chilli Adventures and Shivansh
Inn. Former was the camping types and latter was the hotel types. Camping types
cost was Rs. 1500 ($22.10) per head for accommodation, food and fire. Hotel
types was 1100 ($16.21) per day for a room; minus the food and fire; where we
all three could have crashed as I had my brand new Quechua sleeping bag and was
not required a bed (sorry for boasting, as it cannot be helped). But later
Titli made arrangements at an Ashram called Parmarth Ashram. The cost of the
accommodation was Rs. 900 ($13.26) for the three of us with three separate
beds. Sadly I missed the chance to show off the power of my Quechua sleeping
bag. But happily it was just Rs. 300 ($4.42) per head per day for the
accommodation.
KD's concert tickets were booked over the phone with Alan, which was easy. It was Rs. 700 ($10.31) per ticket which went in for Cancer patients to Ganga Prem Hospice
The Beginning:
With this we were all set and ready for a Bhajan
Centric trip towards Rishikesh with food as our primary focus. We started from
Kashmere Gate ISBT at 2315 hrs and by 0600 hours we were thrown at Rishikesh
bus stand. Ram Jhula is 3.0 km (1.86 miles) from the bus stand and our
accommodation was 200-300 m (0.2 miles) more. So after a few discussions and
deliberations we decided to walk till Parmarth Ashram instead of hiring a
social three wheeler automobile which was charging us Rs 60 ($0.88) for
all. It was a cold morning, but walk was pleasant. Our bags were a bit heavy
but the mood was light. After 30 minutes of walk we reached Ram Jhula. As we
reached there the dawn broke in and we could see the far away clouds through
the mist that was rising from the Ganges flowing beneath. It felt like
transcending from abnormality towards normality, inhumane surroundings towards
a humane surrounding. Crossing Ram Jhula felt like a symbolism to that
transcendence. Half way on Ram Jhulua a feeling of neti neti rushed through my
being and I felt grateful for no reason. Finally we were at the other end, into
the realm of Bhakti; spirituality if you wish to call it.
Through the narrow streets of Rishikesh with some
closed shops in the process of being opened on either sides we walked our way
towards the remaining 200 - 300 m (0.2 mile) stretch for our Ashram. We reached
there just to be informed that we need to come back at 0800 hrs when the office
will open. So we had more than an hour with us to happily idle away. And what
best way could be to understand the theory of relativity associated with Time
other than sitting over tea with a few gay (happy disposition) friends. I
instinctively got into a cafe whose ambience and vibe I liked instantaneously.
Here I learnt that there are a few small shops near Ram Jhula which serve
sumptuous healthy breakfast meals. I saw people ordering porridge, muesli,
bowls full of different fruits, and milk on their tables around us; in
juxtapose to our table with 3 large cups of tea, and packets of biscuits. For a
moment It felt out of place but when you have two Gemini friends as company,
the duration of your focus remaining on one feeling gets scarce. Tea was
horrible, no second questions about it, but the ambience was soothing and the
company was that of the adjective carefree. So the tea tasting horrible didn't
matter at all. I even ended up drinking Titli's left over tea (which has now
officially become my hobby when I am in company of these two). After our one
hour unapologetically, incessant, frivolous and senseless talking session ended
happily the clock read 0800 hrs.
We finally booked our room in the Ashram. It was not a
room but set of 2 rooms with a verandah and a balcony, inhibiting 3 beds with
quilts and an attached bathroom with hot water, as cherry on top. Rs. 900
($13.26) per day; accounting to Rs. 300 ($4.42) per person for a day! Not bad,
eh?
Start Of Day One:
"Parmarth Ashram" Pic By @Chidiyyaaa Instagram
Start Of Day One:
With basic foundation of our trip being construed we
were all set for the day. I have never imagined that the feeling of having the
complete day at my disposal could be so exhilarating. This feeling was not only
limited in me but was percolating in the entire gang. Inspite of all the
deprivation in our sleep due to previous night's bus journey, we were radiant
with energy and were looking forward towards the day.
Our trip map had the following touch points:
Point A: Bus Stand
Point B: Parmarth Ashram (Base Camp)
Point C: Devraj German Cafe (Camp 1)
Point D: Little Buddha Cafe (Camp 2)
Point E: Chotiwala (Emergency Ration Camp)
Point F: Swatantranand Ashram (Camp III, KD Zone)
"MAP ONE"
"MAP TWO"
"MAP THREE"
So we took our first stroll from Point B towards Point
C which was a 3 km leisure walk amongst splendid surroundings. It was so much
reminiscent of my childhood, walking on a narrow lane with spacious bungalows
on both sides, filled with trees and vines. My childhood was spent in a Railway
Colony in a small city called Gorakhpur where this was a common site. After a
30-40 minute walk; where my attention was drawn towards cow dungs along the way
countless times by Titli and Chidiya right before I was about to step on them;
we camped at Point C which was camp 1. The effect of covering 7 odd kilometers
(4.34 miles) in total on foot was quite evident from the gleam of hunger with
which we were staring at food in Devraj Cafe. We broke our first meal together,
and it felt so fulfilling and amazing that it cannot be explained in words. The
simple acts of idly sitting, eating, drinking and chatting becomes
extraordinary when you have appetite, time, people; around whom you feel
comfortable and at ease; and a sense of buoyancy. Following are the items
consumed at camp 1:
Cheese Sandwiches Masala Chai
Some sweet confectionary
Chocolate Shake
I don't remember what Titli ordered for a drink :p
Shared meal of Potato Brownies (Must Eat Item)
"Devraj German Bakery" Pic By @meera.in.me Instagram
"Wanderings On The Banks Of Ganges" Pic By @Chidiyyaaa Instagram
"Laxman Jhula" Pic By @Chidiyyaaa Instagram
"Graffiti Near Laxman Jhula" Pic By @meera.in.me Instagram
Then we started wandering aimlessly near Laxman Jhula.
We then took a jagged looking archaic stairs towards Ganges beach. We then took
some selfies, played rock skipping of which on Chidiya's recommendation Titili
shot an amazing slow motion video from her Iphone 6s. After being wander struck
for some time we came back to Camp 1. There is a book store next to camp 1. We
went in and browsed through many books, from Ayn Rand to J. M. Coetzee to
Lonely Planet Books to Books on Hindu god and goddesses to books on Tantric
Sex, but bought none. Then there was a Eureka moment at Devraj Cafe where
Chidiya and Titli discovered cold coffee as the best beverage of that cafe. Now
was our turn to move out of Camp 1, and so we did.
We crossed Laxman Jhula and made our way towards shops
located on this other side. We browsed through infinite number of things but
bought just a few things. After this we went to Camp 2 i.e. Little Buddha Cafe,
as the time was 1200 hrs and we were feeling hungry and excited to explore Camp
2. Little Buddha is a relatively larger Cafe located right next to Ganges on
the Second or first floor. This was one of those light deficient places which
are labelled as psychedelic by people who indulge themselves in substances. But
we were here just for food to satisfy our hunger along with our taste buds. We
ordered Salad, Thukpa, and
Cottage Cheese Spinach Momos. It 100% satisfied both our hunger and taste
buds. I am sure our taste buds definitely were doing Gangnam Style in our
mouths. The quality and quantity of food at Camp 2 (Little Buddha Cafe) was
both gratifying and delightful on a very affordable price with a little less
than Rs 200 ($2.95) per meal per head.
"Salad, Thukpa, and Cottage Cheese Spinach Momos" Pic By @meera.in.me Instagram
After a delightful lunch and enjoyable time spent at
Camp 2 we started walking towards base camp. By the time we reached Base Camp,
the time on the clock was 1530 hrs. Titli and Chidiya wanted to attend Parmarth
Ashram's famous Aarti. After catching one hour of sleep we did attend the
Aarti. The singers who were singing the Aarti were really good. They had an
entire Aarti playing band with Tabla, Cymbals, Indian Flute, Harmonium, One
lead singer, one backup singer and a few chorus singers. The effect of live
music with Ganges flowing in such close proximity had a really moving
experience upon me. I can write pages upon pages about it but that is something
personal I don't wish to discuss in public. So after the Aarti was over it was
time for us to wander, stray, or move around aimlessly again. We went to little
Buddha Cafe again, and eureka, PASTA!! It was the best Pasta imaginable. So we had a Pasta carnival for dinner. Pasta in Red Sauce, Pasta in Green
Sauce, and Pasta in White Sauce. Our dinner literally looked like Italian National Flag.
"Parmarth Ashram; Ganga Aarti" Pic By @Chidiyyaaa Instagram
" Red, Green, White Sauce Pasta at Little Buddha Cafe"
Pic By @meera.in.me Instagram
The day ended eventually. Titli had some fancy gadget which was tied to her wrist and used to synchronize with her Iphone to give her number of steps she had walked translating it into number of kilometers covered. It read 17.32 kms. Being exhausted to the bone we all fell asleep placidly in our Bungalow cum room.
The Ending:
Next day we left our room early morning 0800 hours to attended the most awaited event for which we came to Rishikesh in the first place; Krishna Das' concert. We walked from Parmarth Ashram to the concert venue: Swatantranand Ashram along the Ganges beach. It was a pleasant walk with Ganges flowing in close proximity giving a feeling of permanence and impermanence both at the same time. After walking 4 kms we reached the venue 1 hour 30 minutes before the concert was scheduled to start. We had Baba Ramdev's Maggi at a local cafe. At 1:30 PM the concert started. The hall was jam packed with people and energy. KD started meditating (singing) and we were witnessing. 3 hours flew past, taking us along through varied sensations and experiences. It was like riding a big spiritual giant wheel. After the concert was over, we were hungry again. So with all the pasta-hangover from yesterday we rushed towards Laxman Jhula in an auto; where my suggestion to walk again was met with total disdain and scorn by Titli and Chidiya; to celebrate the end of our trip. We took a stop for a quick Chai and coffee, then headed for our last meal together.
"Krishna Das In Action" Pic By @Chidiyyaaa Instagram
"Our Last Sumptuous Meal In Rishikesh: Pasta in Green, White Sauce and Pizza"
Pic By @meera.in.me Instagram
The breaking of bread together ceremony for the last time in Rishikesh marked the ending of our amazing trip. Prior to coming to this trip I was reading this book 'Way of the peaceful warrior'. In this book there is a character called Socrates who tries to tell and explain: “The journey is what brings us happiness not the destination” to the author. It took him some time to realize the significance of the aforesaid statement, but he eventually realizes it. I too realized it! ☺☺☺
